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Paradise at the 28th Annual Southern California Spring Garden Show

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

LAUNCH GALLERY

7 photos

One of my favorite garden shows of all time—and I’ve been to a lot of them—is the Southern California Spring Garden Show held every spring at South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, California. The fact that the show, which began in 1989, takes place at a major global shopping center destination makes it unique enough, but the vendors who come from near and far create a true treasure trove for garden enthusiasts.

With a theme of At Home in The Garden, focused on outdoor living, this year’s show, running from April 27-30^th, promises to inspire and delight gardeners of all ages and interests. There are 10 awe-inspiring display gardens, including a 21-foot floral centerpiece, 50 unique garden vendors and more than 60 complimentary seminars. You’re sure to find unusual plants, including specialty orchids, epiphyllum, iris, geranium, bonsai, Japanese maple and garden accessories, such as colorful pottery.

Seminars are many, including on edible landscaping, herb gardening, growing succulents, cultivating fuchsias, gardening with natives and creating cocktails from the garden. There are even children’s activities to inspire budding gardeners and keep them occupied.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Paradise at the 28th Annual Southern California Spring Garden Show

Plant an Indoor Kitchen Garden for Earth Day

It’s Earth Day weekend, and while spring has sprung and you may feel like planting veggies, if you don’t have outdoor growing space, it might seem like a bummer to have an itchy green thumb. The good news is that you can grow just about anything indoors, and the book Indoor Kitchen Gardening: Turn Your Home Into a Year-Round Vegetable Garden, will tell you how to do just that.

(Crystal Liepa)

The author of the book, Elizabeth Millard, began enjoying fresh-from-the-indoor-kitchen-garden produce during winters in Minnesota. She started with microgreens, radishes and pea shoots and branched out from there to discover that she could grow just about anything indoors, including beets and mushrooms.

“The experience went against everything I’d believed for most of my life—that indoor vegetable growing was for experts who possessed deeply green thumbs, and that anything edible raised inside a house had to be grown in some extensive, costly system,” says Millard, who discovered that with the right mix of water, airflow, light and attention, veggies can flourish as well as houseplants.

(Crystal Liepa)

Millard’s book shares the basics on indoor growing, including how to grow various veggies and use them, as well as troubleshooting tips for issues such as pests and diseases. The book also mentions the benefits of what you don’t have to battle when growing veggies indoors—including weeds, birds, rabbits and squirrels.Here is a sneak peek into some of the indoor gardening wisdom you’ll find in Millard’s book. Requirements for indoor growing. Several ingredients go into successfully growing an indoor veggie garden. They are light, including natural and artificial, airflow, which is an often missed ingredient, sufficient room to grow, proper watering and drainage and humidity control.

(Crystal Liepa)

Lighting tips. As Millard promises in her book, you don’t need special, super expensive lighting to grow an indoor veggie garden. All you require are full-spectrum fluorescent bulbs that can be put into standard metal fixtures. This section also explains when and how to give plants that are leggy and spindly a burst of red or orange light, which will stimulate growth and flowering, or how to use blue or green lights to get short and stocky plants to grow. Crops ideally suited to indoor growing. This part of the book tells you which crops are easier to grow indoors than others. Good starter crops include microgreens, sunflower shoots, pea shoots, sprouted grains and many herbs, like rosemary, thyme, mint, parsley, lemongrass, chervil, basil, cilantro, oregano and sage. Once you get the hang of these, you can transition to other tasty vegetables like lettuce, arugula, spinach, radish, tomato, potato and hot pepper.

(Crystal Liepa)

Indoor seeding. This section gives tips for choosing seeds and growing them indoors. You’ll discover how to plant them, including what soil to use. There are also instructions for hastening germination and maintaining healthy seedling growth. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

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Grow Nasturtiums in Your Spring Garden

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

One of my favorite hallmarks of spring is the nasturtiums that pop up in my garden. While they light up the landscape from a distance with their brilliant blooms, they also create quite a picture when you admire them up close. I’m always mesmerized by the stunning throats of these flowers, which look as if someone took a fine paintbrush to them.

In addition to making a pretty picture in the landscape, nasturtiums attract bees, and they’re edible. Pop one of these blooms into your mouth, and you’ll find that they taste like radishes. My favorite Easter treat is to stuff their throats with cream cheese flavored with chives. They also make a delightful addition to a salad.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Nasturtiums are easy to grow from seed. Simply soak the seeds overnight in water and then nick each seed in a couple of places with a sharp knife before planting. Plant directly in the garden, or pot up in containers and plant out at a later time. They grow in just about any garden soil and will tend to reseed themselves.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Keep nasturtiums well watered, as they don’t like to dry out. In the absence of rainfall, water every two or three days during the spring months. Water when the top inch of soil has dried out in the ground and when the top ½ inch of soil has dried out in containers.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Harvest nasturtiums for eating in the morning or evening. At these times they tend to be the most buoyant and full of water. At midday they tend to be cycling water, so this isn’t an ideal time.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

If you will be picking nasturtiums for eating later in the day, place them in the refrigerator in a plastic bag. They will stay perky for 24 hours. Wait until you’re ready to eat nasturtiums before rinsing them. Do so under a gentle flow of water prior to serving. Of all of the edible flowers, nasturtiums tend to hold up the best and the longest. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

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Date: APRIL 15, 2017

Grow Nasturtiums in Your Spring Garden

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Nasturtiums don’t require much in the way of fertilizer. They tend to pull what they need from the soil. If you grow these blooming beauties in containers, though, fertilize once during the growing season with an organic food for flowering plants. Feed after they’ve been growing for a month. Harvest nasturtiums for eating in the morning or evening. At these times they tend to be the most buoyant and full of water. At midday they tend to be cycling water, so this isn’t an ideal time. If you will be picking nasturtiums for eating later in the day, place them in the refrigerator in a plastic bag. They will stay perky for 24 hours. Wait until you’re ready to eat nasturtiums before rinsing them. Do so under a gentle flow of water prior to serving. Of all of the edible flowers, nasturtiums tend to hold up the best and the longest.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

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Grow Heliotrope in Your Spring Garden

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

One of my favorite flowering shrubs is heliotrope (Heliotropium arborescens). This fragrant shrub emits a lovely vanilla scent that perfumes the garden on a warm, sunny day. The plant tends to flower heaviest in spring and fall, although it can also provide blooms in the summer months.

To have luck growing heliotrope in your spring garden, keep the following cultivation tips in mind. Grow in full sun to partial shade. In areas with hot summers, such as the west and southwest, grow heliotrope in an area of the garden that provides morning sun and afternoon shade, such as an eastern exposure. In areas with mild summer, the shrub can be grown in full sun.

Plant in rich soil that is on the acidic side. If you’re located in an area with alkaline soil, apply a fertilizer that contains soil sulfur, which will acidify the soil and lead to healthy growth. Also add compost to enrich the soil. Promote drainage. Though heliotrope likes rich soil, it also requires good drainage. Without sufficient drainage, the shrub will succumb to root rot. Add a drainage agent to the soil, such as pumice, which won’t break down, but will stay in the soil and ensure that the soil drains well.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Keep well watered. Heliotrope doesn’t do well if allowed to dry out. Water container grown plants when the top inch of soil has dried out. Irrigate in-ground heliotrope when the top two inches of soil has dried out. Apply mulch to keep the soil surface moist and to cut down on the need for watering. Pinch and prune regularly. To maintain a bushy heliotrope, pinch the growth tips back when the plant is young. As the plant becomes more mature, deadhead spent flowers, which will encourage more blooming. Cut the plant back by one-half in late winter or early spring. This will encourage full, healthy growth throughout the growing season. Bring heliotrope indoors for winter. If you live in an area of the country that experiences freezing in winter and you wish to preserve your heliotrope, bring it indoors for the cold months of the year. Place the plant in an area of the home with bright light and water when the top 2 inches of soil has dried out. Take heliotrope outdoors in early spring when danger of frost has passed. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

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Date: APRIL 7, 2017

Grow Heliotrope in Your Spring Garden

Heliotrope comes in purple and white, with the white variety particularly fragrant. This shrub grows 4 to 6 feet tall and 6 to 8 feet wide. The plant has pom-pom-like flower clusters and attractive dark green leathery leaves. In addition to perfuming the garden, heliotrope attracts bees and butterflies. The plant makes an attractive addition to beds and borders, as well as a striking focal point in the garden. To have luck growing heliotrope in your spring garden, keep the following cultivation tips in mind. Grow in full sun to partial shade. In areas with hot summers, such as the west and southwest, grow heliotrope in an area of the garden that provides morning sun and afternoon shade, such as an eastern exposure. In areas with mild summer, the shrub can be grown in full sun.

Promote drainage. Though heliotrope likes rich soil, it also requires good drainage. Without sufficient drainage, the shrub will succumb to root rot. Add a drainage agent to the soil, such as pumice, which won’t break down, but will stay in the soil and ensure that the soil drains well.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

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Gardening with Chickens

In the early 1990s, when I started raising backyard chickens in my Southern California garden, many people thought it an oddity. While they liked trying the eggs, I could tell that even the most adventurous gardeners weren’t quite sure about bringing what were considered farm animals into their yards.

Times have changed. Today the backyard chicken movement is growing stronger every day. As Lisa Steele says in her recent book, Gardening with Chicken: Plans and Plants for You and Your Hens, the move toward a simpler, more sustainable way of life has spurred a burgeoning interest in gardening and chicken keeping.

(Lisa Steele)

For the most part, female chickens are docile creatures intent on three tasks—eating, laying eggs, and for lack of a better term, relieving themselves. While the egg-laying obviously benefits us humans, it turns out that they’re eating and pooping is also beneficial. Because young, healthy chickens produce on average six eggs a week, they’re voracious eaters. The pecking chickens do in the garden is usually hunting for insects, so they keep the garden cleaned up if you have an imbalance of insect pests. And their scratching in the dirt helps keep your soil loose and aerated. In addition, they’re not picky eaters. Let them loose on a weedy area, and they’ll take care of unwanted plants for you.

(Lisa Steele)

Chicken poop is also rich in nutrients, which feeds the soil and creates a nutrient-rich environment for your plants. Steele includes information on how to compost their droppings so that it can serve as a premium, “homegrown” organic fertilizer for your plants.

(Lisa Steele)

If you’re looking for a great guide on raising chickens in your garden, I suggest getting Steele’s book. Her own flock morphed from three chickens initially to more than three dozen today. Her hens cohabitate with ease in her Maine kitchen garden. She has mastered integrating her garden with her chicken keeping so that both feed off of each other. Her book shows you how to thoughtfully plan out your chicken coop and garden so that everyone wins.

(Lisa Steele)

In her book, Steele, who blogs at Fresh Eggs Daily, guides you through managing a backyard flock and making the most of their various talents. You’ll also learn a great deal about keeping your hens happy and healthy. For instance, she shares how supplements, such as probiotics, support their digestive systems and what herbs to plant in your garden to keep your chickens’ delicate respiratory systems healthy.

(Lisa Steele)

Another new book to check out about gardening with chickens that is also full of great information is Backyard Chickens: Beyond the Basics: Lessons for Expanding Your Flock, Understanding Chicken Behavior, Keeping a Rooster, Adjusting for the Seasons, Staying Healthy, and More! Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

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Grow Epiphyllum in your Spring Garden

(FreeImages.com/Tracy Toh)

It’s always delightful to see a flower bloom in the garden, but when it comes to the flowering cactus, epiphyllum, there’s something magical about the experience. Maybe it’s the fact that this gorgeous flower comes from such a plain looking plant. In many ways, it’s a beauty and the beast kind of pairing.

Commonly known as epies or orchid cacti, these tropical cactuses originated in the jungles, where they attach their roots to trees. Their foliage may be forgettable, but their blooms are breathtaking. Truly, few other flowers can match the epiphyllum.

(FreeImages.com/Tibor Fazakas)

Epie flowers range in size from small (the size of a quarter) to 12 inches across. They come in a wide variety of stunning colors, including pink, lavender, red, white, orange and yellow. Epiphyllums usually bloom from April through June. The blooms are short-lived, lasting just one to three days.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Despite sporting head-turning flowers, epies are surprisingly easy to grow. To have luck growing epiphyllum in your spring garden, keep the following cultivation tips in mind.

Provide proper lighting. Epies require morning sun and afternoon shade or filtered, bright light throughout the day.

(FreeImages.com/Tracy Toh)

Water correctly. Avoid letting epies dry out completely, but don’t grow them in soggy soil. Under- or overwatering will lead to bud drop and poor growth. Wait until the top two inches of soil has dried and then water the epiphyllum well. Ensure that the growing container has sufficient drainage holes and gives the plant just enough room to grow. Too big of a pot will lead to excess wet soil and root rot.

(FreeImages.com/Tibor Fazakas)

Fertilize regularly. Regular feeding is key to healthy epie growth and lots of blooms. Feed epiphyllum spring through fall with an organic fertilizer designed for flowering plants.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Grow Epiphyllum in your Spring Garden

(FreeImages.com/Tibor Fazakas)

These tropical (as opposed to desert) cacti have flat, notched succulent stems that are spineless. These stems often trail, which makes the plant look attractive in hanging baskets. Epiphyllum will also scale walls. Epie flowers range in size from small (the size of a quarter) to 12 inches across. They come in a wide variety of stunning colors, including pink, lavender, red, white, orange and yellow. Epiphyllums usually bloom from April through June. The blooms are short-lived, lasting just one to three days.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Despite sporting head-turning flowers, epies are surprisingly easy to grow. To have luck growing epiphyllum in your spring garden, keep the following cultivation tips in mind. Provide proper lighting. Epies require morning sun and afternoon shade or filtered, bright light throughout the day.

(FreeImages.com/Tracy Toh)

(FreeImages.com/Tibor Fazakas)

Grow epies in a well-draining potting soil that retains some moisture. Look for a potting soil that has drainage agents, such as bark, pumice or perlite, as well as ingredients that retain water, including compost and peat moss. A good mix is 2 parts potting soil to 1 part perlite to 1 part orchid bark. Fertilize regularly. Regular feeding is key to healthy epie growth and lots of blooms. Feed epiphyllum spring through fall with an organic fertilizer designed for flowering plants.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Watch out for pests. The most troublesome pests for the epie are snails and slugs, which love to dine on the fleshy foliage. Handpick the snails at night or set out bait that is nontoxic to pets and people. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Cultivating Lifelong Gardeners with Community Gardens

ough her memories of working in a community garden alongside her parents aren’t exactly fond ones, somewhere along the garden path Kathy Jentz got bit by the gardening bug.

“As a child in the 1970s, we lived in apartments and townhomes, so we gardened in community gardens,” says Jentz. “My memories of those times aren’t that pleasant, because the gardens had no water source, which meant hauling milk jugs full of water out to the plots, and my parents gave me the “fun” chore of weeding in the hot sun.” The fresh air, sunshine and joy of growing went to her head, though, because today Jentz is a lifelong gardener and even belongs to a community garden across the street from her home in Washington DC. She is editor/publisher of Washington Gardener Magazine and posts weekly updates about her community garden plot on her blog. Cultivating lifelong gardeners is a common byproduct of community gardens, which number approximately 18,000 throughout the U.S., says LaManda Joy, a board member of the American Community Gardening Association and author of the book, Start a Community Food Garden: The Essential Handbook. Inspired by the WW2 Victory Garden movement, Joy founded Chicago’s Peterson Garden Project in 2010. The award-winning education and community gardening program uses empty urban property to create short-term organic gardens where thousands of people have had the opportunity to learn the life-long skill of growing their own food. “We put in four large Pop-up Victory gardens in 2012 and a seed saving garden at The Field Museum of Chicago,” says Joy. “Since then, we’ve had a total of 11 gardens and almost 4,000 people are gardening with us, and we have hundreds of volunteers.” New York Master Gardener volunteer and garden author Julie Brocklehurst-Woods got her start at a community garden. “I planted my first garden with my dad’s help in a community garden after graduating from college with a degree in Occupational Therapy,” she says. “The green beans and squash grew very well, and I got a few tomatoes before an early frost. I also made some friends and picked up some tips from other gardeners.” When C.L. Fornari and her husband, Dan, moved to Cape Cod in 1994 and bought a house with very little sun for gardening, the couple immediately signed up for two 20×20-foot plots in a community garden.

(Photo: Julie Bawden-Davis)

“At that time the community garden was a 20-minute drive from where we lived, but it was worth the trip to have fresh, organic food,” says Fornari, author of several books on gardening, including Coffee for Roses. “My husband and I have planted a vegetable garden together during 40 of our 42 years of marriage, and I think one of life’s great blessings is being able to walk into the garden in the evening and ask, “What’s for dinner?” Even though the Fornaris eventually moved to a house with 2 1/2 acres, Dan decided that since he’d spent 14 years building up the soil, he didn’t want to give up the community garden plot, so they have a plot at home for daily dinner harvests and another at the community garden for items that don’t require daily picking like paste tomatoes and winter squash. While community gardens have been around for decades, often as afterthought plots put on surplus city land, the concept is even starting to catch on with home builders, like The Village of Sendero in Southern California. The 34,000-square-foot working ranch and farm features gardens where residents can tend plots of vegetables, herbs and flowers. No matter what type of community garden you become involved in, it’s necessary to be a good neighbor. “Somebody is always miffed about somebody else’s encroachment over the property line and how their actions affect them,” says Jentz. “That encroachment can come in the form of weeds, overgrown vines, and even tall crops like corn that throw a shadow over a once-sunny bed. Overall, though, the communal gardening experience is very rewarding and worthwhile. Gardeners are, in general, a generous and lovely bunch of folks.” There are downsides to being in a community garden, agrees Fornari. “The pests are always in greater numbers because not everyone uses organic means of controlling them, and as the summer goes on, gardeners don’t control the weeds, which go to seed. You also have to be tolerant when a neighbor plants something that borders on invasive. We still fight young horseradish plants that are offspring from a couple of plants our neighbor put in 15 years ago.” Despite the compromises, Fornari enjoys the differences that come up in a community garden. “It’s interesting to see how there is never just one way to grow things,” she says. “One person mounds up the soil while another plants in trenches. Some gardeners till their plots, while others never turn the soil. A community garden is a good example of how people can unite around their desire to cultivate something good, while still allowing for individual differences. Community gardens represent Americans being their best selves.” Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com. She also uses the TidBitt’s subscription platform to manage Clippings: Gardening in the Great Indoors.

How To Create The Perfect Perennial Garden

(FreeImages.com/rinhtaray)

One of the highlights of the spring garden is the appearance of perennials. After a long winter’s nap, plants that you may have forgotten about, like bee balm, coneflower, trillium and daylilies, wake up to greet the warm weather ahead.

If you don’t have a perennial garden, but would like to set one up, here are some tips to get you started on the right garden path. Types of perennial gardens

You’ll find that perennial gardens are laid out either in borders or island beds. Borders are usually rectangular. Their dimensions can vary. For instance, a bed may be 4 feet long and 2 feet wide or 10 feet long and 4 feet deep. The size depends on the amount of space available in your landscape and the type of garden design you want to create.

(FreeImages.com/Carol Kramberger)

An island bed usually “floats” within a landscape. For instance, it may be located in a lawn or along a pathway. Such beds are generally irregular in shape and often curved, without sharp corners. Planting your perennial garden

When selecting perennials for either type of garden bed, consider the form and growth habits of the plants, as well as the colors. Beds usually look best with a repeating color theme. For instance, purple, white and pink flowers or red, white and blue blooms. Think of it as creating a floral quilt in your landscape.

(FreeImages.com/Irum Shahid)

When you plant a border perennial garden, the best setup is to put taller plants in the back of the bed and as you work your way forward, put in plants that are gradually shorter. That means placing groundcover-type plants at the front of the bed. Since island beds are seen from all sides, you want to plant the tallest plants in the center and work your way down from there on both sides. For instance, place larkspur in the middle of the bed surrounded by columbine.

(FreeImages.com/Michal Zacharzewski)

You can plant your perennials in drifts, which are graceful rows, or in a manner that creates a pattern. Also consider plant texture and size. For an effect, plant soft textured plants up front and stiffer, more erect plants towards the back or middle of the bed.

(FreeImages.com/Ian Alexander Martin)

When planting, use the design principle of odd numbers. For instance, plant five lobelia or three columbine. If you are going for the same color scheme, try mass plantings. A cluster of sweet William, for example, looks stunning in a flower bed.

(FreeImages.com/Tim Hill)

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Add Magic to Your Landscape with Statuary

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

The best gardens are those that offer surprises. And an ideal way to surprise and delight garden visitors, and even yourself, is by adding statuary to the landscape.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Statuary allows you to fill in areas where plants might not grow well. They also light up the garden during the cold months of the year when not much is growing or blooming. Unique statues also add whimsy to the garden and personalize your landscape.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Garden statuary has appeared in numerous gardens over the centuries. The ancient Egyptians placed statuary in their temples and gardens, as did the Greeks. Visit any public or botanical garden, and you’re sure to see statues strategically placed throughout the landscape.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

To choose statuary for your garden, pick a piece that appeals to you. A statue that “calls” to you and makes you smile when you see it, is likely to fit right into your landscape.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

When placing statuary in the garden, put a statue either in a place of prominence, where it creates a focal point, or in an out-of-the-way area where it elicits a delightful surprise when you come across the piece as you travel the garden path. For instance, a little elf peeking out of the foliage near a table and chairs where you like to sit, or a bunny rabbit and her babies gathered near a birdbath.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Let your imagination run where it may when choosing statuary for the garden, and watch where the magic takes you.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Grow Jade Plant in Your Indoor Garden

(FreeImages.com/Sara Lambie)

Also known as the money plant, jade (Crassula ovata) is one of the most popular succulents to grow as a houseplant. This South African native with its emerald green, oblong leaves and stout trunk adds an eye-catching element to the indoor garden.

To have success growing this pretty plant in your indoor garden, keep the following cultivation tips in mind. Provide bright light

Jade grows best in full sun outdoors, so it’s important to provide as much light indoors as possible. Grow the plant in a southern, western or eastern window. If your window lighting is insufficient or nonexistent, jade does well growing under supplemental lighting. Get full-spectrum light bulbs, which can be used in any type of lighting fixture.

(FreeImages.com/Beverly Lloyd-Roberts)

If you don’t provide jade with enough light, the plant won’t grow much, and when it does, the foliage will be undersized and weak. Jade grown without sufficient lighting also attract pests, like mealybugs. Water sparingly Jade quickly succumbs to root rot if overwatered, so it’s best to err on the dry side with this plant. Wait until the top 2 to 3 inches of soil has dried out before watering. Use lukewarm water and let the plant drain well in the sink before putting it back in its place. Avoid letting the plant sit in water. Keep in mind that in the fall and winter jade will require watering about half as much of the time.

(FreeImages.com/Beverly Lloyd-Roberts)

Avoid high humidity

As a desert plant, jade requires low humidity. Use a hygrometer to make sure the area where you’re putting the plant is between 30 to 50 percent humidity. Avoid growing the plant in more humid areas of the home, like the bathroom. Also ensure that the plant has good air circulation, such as near a ceiling fan or a window that you open periodically. Another good place to put jade is near air-conditioning and heating vents, as these tend to be drier areas. Fertilize jade regularly Jade requires a monthly feeding spring through summer. Use a ½-strength solution of an organic, all-purpose plant food. Once a year, also add a ¼-inch layer of worm compost to the soil surface. This will boost biological activity and help the plant feed itself.

(FreeImages.com/Beverly Lloyd-Roberts)

Repotting jade Jade is a slow grower indoors and doesn’t require repotting very often. When it does, plant in a fast-draining potting soil, such as a cactus mix. Make sure the mix you use has an abundance of perlite or pumice, which will ensure good drainage.

(FreeImages.com/Beverly Lloyd-Roberts)

Will jade flower indoors? Mature jade flowers with clusters of pinkish white, star-shaped blooms outdoors. Most jade don’t flower indoors, because the plant requires the shortening days in fall to initiate bloom. If you are able to put your jade outdoors on a sun porch or a similar area that exposes the plant to protected outdoor conditions in the fall, you may get it to bloom. The plant needs 10 to 12 hours of complete darkness each night for at least two months in order to flower. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Chinese Evergreen a Reliable, Decorative Houseplant

If you’re looking for an eye-catching houseplant that does well in a wide range of lighting conditions, try growing Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema). This easy-to-grow plant tolerates just about every indoor condition, says Costa Farm’s garden expert Justin Hancock. “Chinese evergreen is one of the toughest indoor plants you’ll find, yet it’s also one of the most beautiful.”

You’ll find a wide variety of leaf patterns and colors in Chinese evergreen—from rich green, to green and white, to silver patterns and even red. “When Aglaonema gets enough light, it also blooms with cute, calla-lily-like flowers,” says Hancock.

Young, small Chinese evergreen make great desk and tabletop plants, as well as adding a nice touch to terrariums. As the plant grows, it lends an attractive accent to hard-to-decorate areas of the home, such as room corners. The colorful leaves give you a variety of decorating possibilities in terms of matching the plants to upholstery and the containers in which you plant them.

In addition to being a pretty addition to your décor, Chinese evergreen is one of the top houseplant indoor air-cleaners. To successfully grow Chinese evergreen in your indoor garden, keep the following growing tips in mind.

Provide proper lighting

Chinese evergreen can grow in bright light but does best in low to medium light. Place the plant too close to a southern or western window and the leaves may scorch. It grows well in an eastern or southern window or other areas of the home that have medium to low lighting.

Water when necessary

Chinese evergreen should stay moist, but not soggy. Water only when the top ½- to 1-inch of soil has dried out.

(Costa Farms)

Fertilize regularly

Every month, feed Chinese evergreen with an organic houseplant fertilizer. In addition, top-dress the plant every six months with a ½-inch layer of worm compost. Doing this enriches the soil, giving the plant vital micronutrients.

Add humidity

Chinese evergreen require between 50 to 60 percent humidity. You can raise the humidity level around the plant by misting several times a day and/or adding a humidity tray. Grouping plants together also raises the humidity level for all of them.

Watch the temperature

Aglaonema is susceptible to cold and drafty conditions. They prefer to be in rooms that remain around 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

Pests

Chinese evergreen is susceptible to mealybugs. If you find these white, cottony bugs on your plants, spray them with isopropyl alcohol and rinse off once the alcohol dries. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Grow Arrowhead Plant in Your Indoor Garden

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

With its arrow-shaped leaves that are often variegated, arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum) makes a charming addition to the indoor garden. Native to Latin America, this houseplant is a relative of philodendron. In its native habitat, arrowhead plant grows great distances in the jungle. In the home, the vine can also grow long.

Find arrowhead plant in several colors, including lime, dark green and variegated with white and green or pink and green. The plant grows well in medium to low light, so it thrives in most interiors.

(Chas Metivier)

To have success growing arrowhead plant in your indoor garden, consider these growing tips. Provide proper lighting. Arrowhead plant needs medium to low light. The foliage will burn if the conditions are too bright, so keep it out of sunny windows. The plant grows well in northern windows. If the plant yellows, that is a sign that it’s receiving too much overall light. Water when necessary. Maintain arrowhead plant soil at moist but never soggy. Wait until the top 1/2-inch to 1 inch of soil dries out before watering. Always use warm to tepid water, as cold water will burn plant roots and can cause leaf spotting and fungal disease. Fertilize regularly. Feed arrowhead plant every other month with an organic fertilizer designed for foliage plants.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Watch for pests. Keep an eye out for mealybugs and spider mites. Mealybugs resemble white cotton and can be treated by spraying with isopropyl alcohol. Spider mites are tiny insects that scurry around on plant foliage and the soil. They will also produce cobwebs on the underside of foliage. These pests like dry conditions, so avoid letting the plants dry out. Spider mites can also be treated by spraying with horticultural oil, which will kill the mites and their eggs. Pinch regularly and support. If you want the arrowhead plant to be bushy, rather than vine, regularly pinch out new growth. To get a vining plant, let it grow and cascade from high. Arrowhead plant doesn’t produce tendrils that enable the plant to climb, so if you want it to grow up, you’ll need to provide some sort of support, like a trellis. Provide humidity. Arrowhead plant comes from the jungle, so it does best in humid conditions. If you live in a dry area and/or have a heated home, provide extra humidity with a humidity tray. Here is a good video that shows you how to create a humidity tray. Also keep in mind that the more plants you have, the more humid the air will be. Plants humidify one another and provide a more comfortable climate for you. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as The American Gardener, Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Hack Your Way to A Better Garden

When it comes to creating splendor in the garden in a low-cost, sustainable manner, Shawna Coronado learned from the original “queens of the garden hack.”

(Shawna Coronado)

“My grandmothers were—and continue to be—my greatest inspiration,” says the sustainable living coach and author of 101 Organic Gardening Hacks: Eco-friendly Solutions to Improve any Garden. “From a generation that habitually recycled, reduced and re-used, my grandmothers wasted nothing and saved everything. Those are concepts easily incorporated into the garden.”

In her new book, Coronado shares gardening hacks that allow you to create a sustainable garden that is also eye-catching. Her own suburban Chicago landscape brims with veggies, flowers, pathways, sculptures and homemade garden art. Coronado describes a garden hack as a trick that solves a problem in an elegant way and/or offers a frugal solution. Here are some hacks from her book that you can easily incorporate into your own garden. Create an easy compost bin Like all veteran gardeners, Coronado knows that a successful garden starts with healthy soil. For that reason, composting is a must. She offers advice for creating compost bins made out of recycled and re-used materials. These include an old plastic bin composter made from a plastic storage tub, a trash can composter and a quick and easy compost station made with wood and chicken wire. Reuse cooking water in the garden Rather than throwing out cooking water, Coronado believes in recycling it. Depending on what you cook, the water may hold nutritional value for your plants. For instance, after cooking hard-boiled eggs, the water contains calcium, which is good for plants that require this mineral, including those in the Solanaceae family, such as tomato, eggplant, pepper and tomatillo. When you boil greens like chard and spinach, the water contains extra iron, which plants susceptible to chlorosis require, such as citrus and azalea. Avoid using salted water, as the salts aren’t good for plant roots or the soil. Boiling water can also be used to kill weeds. Use hot pads and caution when bringing the boiling water outdoors. Pour it over the crown of the weeds.

(Shawna Coronado)

Floating bee preserver

Due to colony collapse, bee populations are down. That means it’s vital that you do whatever you can to help the remaining bees. Planting bee-friendly plants is a start. Bees also require water. A great way to give these vital creatures a good drink is to create a bee station. To do so, Coronado uses bee preservers, which are pretty glass balls covered in bumps. Place them in a vessel of water, and the bees land on the balls and drink. To attract the bees to the water, Coronado suggests adding 10 to 12 drops of lemongrass oil, which is an essential oil that attracts bees.

(Shawna Coronado)

Easy seed packet storage Old photo albums make a great place to store seed packets for future reference and use. Rather than rummaging around in the garden shed, you can flip through the album when it’s time to plant. Include in the various pockets of the album the seed packets, as well as information on the plants. Include how the plants grew and how long it took the seeds to germinate. This is also a good place to put plant tags and even photos of the resulting plants.

(Shawna Coronado)

Seed saving made simple After plants have gone to seed, you have a small window of opportunity to collect the seed before it drops or blows away or birds and other critters feed on them. An easy way to collect seed is to put a paper bag on the seed head just as the seed is ripening. Secure it with a rubber band, so that the seed stays within the bag. To harvest the seed, simply cut the stalk of the plant, turn it upside down, and the seed will fall into the bag for safekeeping.

(Shawna Coronado)

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as The American Gardener, Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

5 Tips for Winter Landscape Care

Even though we’re in the middle of winter, it’s still a good idea to pay attention to your landscape. Take the time now to care for your lawn and plants, and you can help assure a healthy, vibrant yard come spring, says Gene Caballero, co-founder of GreenPal, a company that provides landscape maintenance.

Here Caballero shares five tips for keeping your landscape healthy during the winter months. Remember to water plants “Hedges, fruit trees and shrubs all need water during cold months when there is no rain or snowfall,” says Caballero. “Insufficient watering can result in serious damage to plants from dehydration and/or disease.”

(FreeImages.com/Pascal Thauvin)

Apply high-quality mulch “For mulching, use the best materials to promote plant health, hydration, growth and fertility,” says Caballero. “Poor quality mulch could infest healthy soil and plants with fungus or pests. If weather permits, mulch the soil surrounding trees and shrubs. When the ground is frozen, wait until it thaws in late winter/early spring.”

Use high-quality fertilizer “Granular fertilizer isn’t an ideal product for plants, because it takes longer to dissolve, especially in colder temperatures,” says Caballero. “In climates that don’t experience severe winter, continue to fertilize the lawn and other plants. If the lawn and plants don’t get enough fertilizer, they can wither or suffer severe frost burns. Fertilize with a spray applicator.” Rake the yard It might be a tedious chore, but Caballero says that raking when weather permits is the secret to keeping the yard tidy and clutter-free. “Neglect this duty, and fungus and mold are likely to thrive when the snow accumulates on the leaves.”

(FreeImages.com/Cathy Kaplan)

Avoid using weed killer “Plant care professionals advise against using any form of pesticides, especially weed killer, during winter months,” says Caballero. “Only treat with weed killer if the temperatures remain above 60 degrees Fahrenheit.” Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

ScottsMiracle-Gro Grassroots Grants Open for Submission

In addition to adding beauty, greening neighborhoods engages youth and brings communities together. For that reason, Scotts Miracle-Gro Foundation started the GRO1000 Grassroots Grants program seven years ago. By 2018, when Scotts turns 150 years old, the foundation will have supported the creation of 1,000 community greenscapes.

Since the program’s inception, more than 830 community organizations across the U.S. and dozens of major cities have received program funding through GRO1000. The program has impacted more than 64,000 youth, who have benefited from hands-on learning and experience with nature.

(FreeImages.com/JHorna Smidt)

The goal of GRO1000 is to bring the life-enhancing benefits of gardens and greenspaces to more people and communities, especially children, notes Jim King, Senior Vice President of Corporate Affairs at ScottsMiracle-Gro. “ScottsMiracle-Gro has had a long-standing passion of connecting children to the benefits of gardening and greenspaces. We’re honored to help communities improve through the development of gardens and greenspaces for their residents.”

From community gardens, to greenspaces, to pollinator habitats and sensory gardens, GRO1000 has supported all types of community-driven projects and places—in particular those that involve youth. The benefits that gardens provide to a community and its residents are significant, and even more so for children.

(FreeImages.com/Helena Bjørndal)

Spending time outdoors gardening helps children in myriad ways, including improving cognitive ability, hand-eye coordination, promoting healthy nutrition habits and increasing self-understanding and self-esteem. When a child cares for a garden and it thrives, that raises awareness and confidence. The impact a garden or greenspace can have on communities is also very powerful. Such havens bring people together, awaken civic pride and inspire positive and healthy lifestyle changes. To access the 2017 GRO1000 Grassroots Grants application, go to GRO1000. The submission deadline is February 20, 2017. Ranging from $500 to $1,500, grants are awarded based on the level of youth engagement, how the project impacts the community, if the harvests are donated and if the project is sustainable, among other criteria. Winners will be announced the first day of spring, March 20, 2017. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

How and When to Prune Houseplants

If a houseplant becomes unwieldy or unbalanced, it’s probably time to give it a pruning. Pinching and pruning make your indoor garden more attractive and can correct structural problems while encouraging new growth.

The key to pruning houseplants is to do so before they become too leggy or unbalanced. Once some plants get rangy, it’s hard, but not impossible, to get them back into shape again. Houseplants that grow best with regular pruning include coleus, grape ivy (cissus), Swedish ivy, pothos, polka dot plant (hypoestes), vining philodendron, (Philodendron scandens), Ficus benjamina, goldfish plant (columnea), purple velvet/passion plant (gynura), creeping Jennie (lysimachia), African violet, lipstick plant (aeschynanthus) and arrowhead plant (syngonium). Done early enough, pinching and pruning will keep houseplants the right size and shape for their space. Light trimming and reshaping can be done any time of the year, including winter. If you will be cutting back substantially, wait until late winter or early spring.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Not all houseplants need pruning, but most benefit from at least some shaping and removal of dead leaves and damaged or diseased stems. Well-kept plants tend to get less pests and diseases. When you prune, do so judiciously. Well pruned plants don’t look pruned, but instead appear natural. If in doubt, don’t cut. It takes a long time for houseplants to grow back once you’ve cut out a substantial amount of growth. As a rule of thumb, prune out no more than ¼ of the foliage at one pruning.

Keep the following in mind when pruning houseplants. Always use high-quality pruning tools, such as bypass pruners or very sharp garden scissors. Dull pruners and scissors crush and tear stems, opening them up to pests and disease.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Proceed slowly. Stop periodically to view your work as you go. Always prune to the natural growth habit of the plant. Shorten leggy stems and branches, cutting back to just before a leaf node, which is the bump on the branch or stem where new growth will appear. When removing large stems completely, cut as close to the main stem as possible or all the way to the base of the plant. Know when to pinch back. Certain smaller and younger houseplants that have soft stems should be pinched back to shape and keep them full. Such plants are easy to prune with your thumb and forefinger nails, although if you prefer, you can use pruners or gardening scissors. These plants include the polka dot plant and young pothos, philodendron and coleus. Pinch off the growing tips of such plants, and they will grow bushy, rather than lanky. Some plants require regular pruning, while others only need it a couple of times of year. When pruning flowering houseplants, familiarize yourself with the bloom cycle prior to pruning, or you might remove flower buds. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Last Minute Gifts for Gardeners

Looking for last minute gifts for the gardeners in your life? The following fun and useful items are sure to put a smile on the face of green thumbs. Giving the ideal tools for gardening tasks can make it a very merry holiday season for everyone.

GrowWall If the gardener in your life wants to get really serious about indoor growing, surprise him or her with a GrowWall from OpcomFarm. This hydroponic growing system is designed for high yield. It grows up to 75 herbs, fruits or vegetables at the same time. The vertical indoor growing unit is also perfect for small spaces.

(OpCom)

GrowBox This tabletop GrowBox from OpcomFarm allows green thumbs to grow up to 50 fruits, veggies and herbs indoors all year long. It’s hydroponic, so no need to deal with messy soil.

(OpCom)

Flo-n-Gro® Big Momma® Bubbler Bucket If the green thumb in your life is interested in growing hydroponically, this handy garden makes doing so a snap. The compact system comes with everything necessary to start a hydroponic garden. You get an air pump with tubing, air stone and more.

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Flo-n-Gro)

Epsoma Fertilizers

This complete line of indoor fertilizers is sure to create healthy, vibrant houseplants for anyone gardening in the great indoors. There’s a special formula for African violets, cactus and succulents and a general fertilizer for everything else. The fertilizers come in easy-to-apply 8-ounce liquid concentrates that contain natural proteins and beneficial microbes. The bottle’s Easy Dose cap allows you to pour the perfect amount without any messy and tedious measuring.

(Epsoma)

Haws Indoor Metal Watering Can Gift Set Watering cans are often an eyesore, which usually means hiding them away indoors. Get the indoor gardener a Haws Indoor Metal Watering Can and mister, though, and these garden tools are likely to become decorative items themselves. The watering can comes in six attractive colors, including burgundy, sage, green, pink and light blue. The mister is a shiny nickel and makes it easy to keep houseplants happy with plenty of humidity.

(windowbox.com)

Pendant Hanging Terrariums These three glass pendant terrariums make an elegant and stylish statement in the home. They have a large opening that allows for easy planting and accessorizing. They also come with a sewn wire chain.

(Hooks & Lattice)

Living Wall Kit with Chalkboard Frame If growing space is especially limited indoors and you want to create a statement, try this living wall kit that allows you to grow herbs and houseplants right on your wall. This indoor wall planter can be hung from any vertical surface. The kit includes a mounting bracket.

(Hooks & Lattice)

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Plant Your Own Mini Terrarium

The fun thing about terrariums is that you have permission to grow them in just about any planting vessel you want. That means that if you wish to grow miniature plants in wine glasses or mugs, you can do so. And the results are quite enchanting.

Plant a mini terrarium in any type of glassware, including martini glasses, champagne flutes, coffee mugs and margarita glasses. The bigger the glassware, the more plants and accessories you can fit into your mini terrarium.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

To plant an eye-catching mini terrarium that will thrive, do the following. Remember that less is more. You may want to fit a bunch of cute plants and whimsical accessories into your mini terrarium, but it’s just not possible. Opt instead for planting up several mini terrariums. Container groupings always look nice indoors, and you can design each terrarium around a certain theme.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Choose plants designed for terrariums. Think of baby plants like puppies. Some grow quite large, while others stay compact. Make sure to plant miniature plants designed for small space gardening, or you will soon have plants overtaking the container. Good choices include some mini ivy, various small succulents, pink polka-dot-plant, various mosses, dwarf anthurium, Neanthe bella palm, selaginella, mini African violet and ming aralia.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Prepare. Gather all of the necessary ingredients for your terrarium before you begin planting. For your terrarium planting mix, you’ll need horticultural charcoal, sphagnum moss, potting soil, gravel, perlite, necessary plants and a planting vessel. Plant. Start by adding a ¼-inch layer of gravel and ½-inch layer of charcoal to the bottom of the glass, followed by a ¼-inch layer of sphagnum moss and 4 inches of potting soil that has a small amount of perlite mixed in. When you’re finished, you should be about an inch below the glass rim. For really small containers, mix all of the ingredients together and use it to fill the glass to an inch below the rim.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Place plants in the terrarium, covering the roots with soil and gently patting down the soil to remove any air pockets. As you plant, maintain a ½-inch to 1 inch between plants and accessories.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Maintain. Grow mini terrariums in a bright location that doesn’t receive direct sunlight, as the interior can get too hot. Good locations include southern and eastern facing windows or under full-spectrum lighting. Water your terrarium about once a week. You only want to water when the top inch of soil has dried out. Overwatering can quickly lead to root rot. Fertilize your mini terrarium once or twice a year, at the most. You don’t want the plants to grow quickly. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Grow Your Own Mini Living Christmas Tree

If the idea of a living Christmas tree is appealing, but you don’t have much space, try a mini tree. You can enjoy the look of a live tree and then plant it in your garden next spring.

“Living tabletop Christmas trees are ecofriendly,” says Chris Link, e-commerce manager at Nature Hills Nursery. “Why purchase a fake tree, or one you’ll throw away, when you can plant a little tree after you’re done using it?”

(Nature Hills Nursery)

Small living Christmas trees are great for anywhere space is an issue, such as apartments and offices. They are also an ideal accent for areas like dining and side tables, desks and mantels.

In order to have luck keeping a mini Christmas tree thriving in your home this winter so you can plant it outside next spring, keep the following tips in mind. Indoor Living Christmas Tree Care Keep the tree healthy indoors, by placing it near a window that gets bright light, if possible, or under full-spectrum lighting. Avoid locating the tree in an area near a heating vent, as this tends to be too drying. The ideal temperature for the room is 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Water the plant when the top inch of soil has dried out. Avoid overwatering, as soggy soil will lead to root rot. Decorating Your Indoor Mini Tree Use care when decorating your tree, as the small limbs are fragile. Use lightweight ornaments and avoid overloading branches. If decorating with lights, opt for LED ones, which stay cooler.

Keeping Your Tree Alive Until Spring After Christmas, store the tree somewhere cold, such as a garage, unheated basement, enclosed porch or sheltered patio or deck for a minimum of four weeks, as these trees need a cold period, advises Link. “Temperatures between 35 to 45 degrees are ideal.” Water sparingly during this time—just to ensure that the soil doesn’t dry out completely, says Link. “Check the soil in the pot every week. Roots and soil should be moist but not standing in water,” he says. Also provide a source of light, such as a window or full-spectrum lighting.

Planting Your Tree Outdoors in Spring When the weather warms and the outdoor soil dries out, move your tree outside into a shaded location for two to three days prior to planting. This will allow it to acclimate to outdoor weather.

(Nature Hills Nursery)

Follow these steps suggested by Link to plant your mini Christmas tree. Find an ideal location. Many living Christmas trees are spruces, which require sufficient space when mature. Plant at least ten feet away from a building. Also choose a spot that is sunny and has well-draining soil. Water the pot well an hour prior to planting to ensure the root system is moist. Dig a hole deep and wide enough to allow room for all of the roots. Remove the tree from the pot. Loosen the root ball slightly with your hands, which will aid roots in entering the surrounding soil. Place the mini tree in the planting hole; backfill with the original soil and gently firm the soil around the roots. Check plant depth. The seedling root ball should be covered and at the same level as the surrounding soil. Avoid planting too deep. Water generously when planted and check twice a week for the first season. Water when the first inch of soil has dried, but avoid overwatering. You don’t want the planting site soggy. Apply a 2-inch layer of mulch around the plant to maintain even moisture. If deer are a problem, place chicken wire or a plastic cylinder around the tree for protection. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Fun DIY Project: Gourd Crafting

As you sit down to eat your pumpkin pie this Thanksgiving, consider another member of the Cucubitaceae family of plants—gourds. Before glass bowls, metal utensils and plastic pitchers, there were gourds. Historically, these versatile fruits were used to create a wide variety of useful and decorative items, including dishes, baskets, water and storage vessels, birdhouses, art pieces and even musical instruments.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Hard-shelled gourds (Lagenaria) come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes and have been grown, dried and used throughout the ages in most areas of the world. Though nowadays we generally use gourds as decorations in North America, there are many areas of the globe where they are still used to store and carry food and water and made into musical instruments for religious services. Gourds can be fashioned into just about anything you’d like. Gourd crafting is a hobby that can be enjoyed by using a few common household and crafting items. And though you can get fancy if you want, no special tools or artistic skills are required.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Each gourd is different, and there is no right or wrong way to embellish one. Decorate gourds by carving, staining, dyeing, woodburning, painting, drawing with permanent marker, or simply polish them with shoe polish and buff until they shine. You can also attach items to gourds, such as netting, leather, beads and dried plant materials, such as leaves. For more ideas and instructions on gourd crafting, consult the book by gourd crafting pioneer Ginger Summit: Gourd Crafts: 20 Great Projects to Dye, Paint, Cut, Carve, Bead and Woodburn in a Weekend (The Weekend Crafter).

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

You’ll find the shiny, often bumpy gourds in stores now, but they aren’t the best for decorating. Rather, you want the hard-shelled Lagenaria gourds that you can either grow in your garden next spring or purchase from a gourd farm. At a gourd retailer, you’ll find gourds in all shapes and sizes. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Proper Lighting For Your Houseplants

Like many indoor gardeners, you may have tried to no avail to grow houseplants in less than ideal lighting conditions. When you bring the plants home, they look good for a time. After a while, though, they begin to lose leaves and look sickly. They may even succumb to pests and diseases, because of the lack of light. And if they’re really deprived of sufficient light, they’ll die.

If indoor gardeners only knew that proper lighting is the secret to healthy, robust plants, nurseries and garden centers might go out of business. Unlike humans, who require sustenance from food, plants make their own food. Light initiates and energizes the process of photosynthesis, which is the procedure by which plants make carbohydrates for energy. Lacking light, plants aren’t able to photosynthesize. Instead, they use existing stored food for growth. Eventually, if the light is insufficient, they will use up all of the stored energy and essentially starve to death. Some plants die when lighting is poor, while others live a sickly existence consisting of very little growth and no flowering. They are also likely to become infested with pests and diseases.

(FreeImages.com/Kay Pat)

Window Lighting A big factor in whether your houseplants will have sufficient light in a window is the orientation of the window. Consider the following: Southern windows are often ideal for growing most houseplants, because they get bright light throughout the day. These windows are good for plants that light high light. Eastern windows are another good growing choice, as they let in sun for a period of time in the morning. These locations are suitable for plants that like medium light. The morning sun rarely burns foliage.

Western windows receive bright light all day and harsh light in the afternoon. Many houseplants have foliage that is too tender for such windows. If you wish to grow near a western window, place most plants at least a couple of feet away or cover the window with blinds that let in some light. Northern windows get the least amount of sunlight. They are a good location for plants that require low to medium light.

(FreeImages.com/Rybson)

Artificial Lighting If you don’t have much natural light in your home, you can replicate sunlight with full-spectrum lighting. Such lighting comes in single, screw-in bulbs and tube forms and can be used in any lighting fixture. Simply install the lights, and your plants will thank you for all of the photosynthesis soon to follow. Low-Light Plants If you don’t want to bother with worrying about giving your houseplants bright light indoors, try growing low-light plants. Some of the top ones include African violet (they bud up in northern windows), arrowhead plant, cast-iron plant, Chinese evergreen, various dracaenas, peace lily, pothos, philodendron and sansevieria. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Time to Plant Bare Root Trees

Fall is the ideal time to get your bare root trees and plant them. Now, when the soil is still workable, gives you the perfect opportunity to plant so that you can enjoy established trees come spring.

Referring to dormant plants that have their roots free of soil, bare root plants are able to acclimate quickly once planted. “When you plant bare root in fall, trees have a chance to put all of their energy into root growth, which will occur during the cold months,” says Chris Link, e-commerce manager at Nature Hills Nursery, where they carry a wide variety of bare root trees and plants. Come spring, bolstered by an established root system, the trees are ready to grow branches and foliage.

(Nature Hill Nursery)

Other benefits of buying and planting bare root trees include the cost savings and lessened chance of diseases or pests, says Link. “Since we don’t ship the soil around the plant roots, they aren’t heavy items to ship and that savings is passed down to the consumer. The risk of getting any soil borne diseases or pests is also less likely with bare root.”

You can also find a greater selection of trees when you go the bare root route. When you receive your bare root trees, proper storage until you plant is imperative. “The number one rule of thumb is to not let the roots dry out,” says Link. “Soak the plant roots in a bucket of water for 12-24 hours before planting.” (Sprinkle a few drops of Vitamin B-1 solution for plants into the water prior to inserting the roots).

(Nature Hills Nursery)

Planting bare root trees within 24-48 hours of their arrival is ideal. This is important, because once they are shipped, bare root trees begin to break dormancy. You want them to begin root growth in the ground, which will help them quickly become strong and well-established. If you can’t plant your bare root trees soon after they arrive, store them out of direct sunlight in a cool area between 35 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Make certain to keep the roots moist. If it will be more than a couple of days before you can plant, insert the roots in a container of potting soil and keep moist. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

4 Houseplant Types to Include in Your Indoor Garden

Like an eye-catching outdoor garden, a breathtaking indoor garden contains a variety of different plant types. To create a planted interior that is well-designed and pleasing to the eye, include foliage plants, flowering houseplants, viners, hangers and climbers and large, tall plants.

Foliage Plants Making up the backbone of the indoor garden, foliage plants should be your most numerous. These plants are generally small to medium in size and consist of a wide variety of foliage types in a rainbow of colors. Many of the leaves are also variegated, which adds further interest. Some easy-to-grow foliage plants for your indoor garden include cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), coleus, croton, various ferns, including maidenhair fern, dumb cane (Dieffenbachia), jade, peacock plant (Calathea zebrina), polka dot plant (Hypoestes phyllostachya), prayer plant (Maranta leuconeura), purple velvet plant (Gynura species), Peperomia and snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata).

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Flowering Houseplants If given adequate lighting and fertilizer, several blooming plants grow well indoors. Use flowering houseplants as focal points to light up areas of the room, such as in the case of hanging plants, or as table center pieces. Plants ideal for flowering indoors include African violet, anthurium, some begonia species, gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), moth orchid (Phalaenopsis species), kalanchoe, peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii), lipstick plant (Aeschynanthus) and goldfish plant (Columnea). The latter two are also good hanging plants.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Viners, Hangers and Climbers Plants that cascade and creep invite attention up, which gives the illusion of rooms appearing taller and more expansive than they actually are. Some plants also do better when allowed to hang from bookshelves and hanging baskets. Houseplants that vine, hang and climb include various ivy, arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), Boston fern and other various ferns, creeping fig (Ficus pumila), philodendron, pothos, spider plant, wandering Jew (Tradescantia zebrina) and wax plant (Hoya carnosa).

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Large, Tall Plants No indoor garden would be complete without at least one large and tall plant. Houseplants, such as indoor trees, make a dramatic statement, as well as fill in hard to decorate areas, such as corners. Some easy-to-grow large and tall plants include various Dracaena species, schefflera, rubber tree, fiddle-leaf fig, various palms, split-leaf philodendron and Ficus benjamina. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Accent Your Garden with Moss

Used increasingly by landscape designers as a sustainable, shade option for the garden, moss gives your garden an Old World look and a refreshing feeling of limitless green. If given sufficient moisture and some light, mosses will happily grow in just about any yard. They can be used as a lawn replacement, as an aesthetic accent to cover walls and structures, in topiary and in specialty garden designs like water, Japanese and rock gardens.

Introducing moss into your garden can be done throughout the year, although fall is often an ideal time. Mosses grow continuously, providing temperatures remain above 20 degrees Fahrenheit and they receive adequate moisture and light.

(Gerla Brakkee/FreeImages.com)

To have luck incorporating moss into your garden, keep the following tips in mind. Start with a blank slate. In the areas you wish to replace with moss, it’s important to remove all vegetation, including turf and weeds. Apply a pre-emergent weed control to discourage any new weeds from sprouting later. Prepare the soil. Mosses will grow on most soils, providing the ground allows for attachment. If your soil is high in sand, the moss may have difficulty attaching, as this type of soil tends to shift. Amend the top 6 to 8 inches of sandy soil with topsoil in order to create a more stable growing surface.

(yournewven/FreeImages.com)

Whatever soil type you have, make the soil surface as smooth as possible, as this will allow moss to more quickly establish itself. Moss can and will cover elements in its path, such as fallen tree branches and rocks, but such growth will occur much more slowly.

As you prepare the soil, keep in mind that any mounding or impressions you leave on the soil surface will show once the area is covered in moss. So if, for instance, you wish for an undulating pattern, prepare the soil in that manner. Use caution removing leaf litter. Keep the newly growing moss free of debris so that it can establish itself. When doing so, be careful not to cause the moss to uproot. Moss pins or netting can be used to help keep the moss secure while it becomes established. Removing any debris by hand causes the least amount of damage. Add plants and other elements prior to planting. If you wish to add any other plants, structures or hardscaping to the area, do so prior to adding the moss.

(Chris Chidsey/FreeImages.com)

Plant. Loosen the soil and then place the moss on top. Tamp by hand or walk on the moss after installing so that it makes contact with the soil. Water deeply after planting, and keep the moss moist. Have patience. Moss is a primitive plant that takes some time to establish itself. If moss receives some sunlight, consistent moisture and temperatures remain above 20 degrees Fahrenheit, it will continue to grow slowly. If it doesn’t receive these ingredients, it will go dormant and resume growth once these elements return. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Fertilize Your Houseplants Organically

Many houseplants benefit from a fall feeding. When it comes to fertilizing your houseplants, organic is your best option. Such plant foods are gentle to plant roots and nourish the soil. A healthy soil creates a self-sustaining environment for your indoor garden that replicates Mother Nature.

You can generally spot organic fertilizers by their N-P-K ratio and ingredients. The N-P-K ratio refers to the three numbers often found on fertilizers. These numbers indicate the percentage in the fertilizer of the major nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Organic fertilizers have low N-P-K ratios, such as 5-4-4, 10-10-10 or 15-10-10. If the fertilizer has much higher numbers, such as 30-50-50, there’s a good chance it isn’t organic.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

These major nutrients are important for a number of reasons. Nitrogen initiates and sustains chlorophyll production, which results in healthy foliar growth and greening. Phosphorus leads to healthy cell structure, as well as fruiting and flowering and root growth. Potassium strengthens houseplants against diseases and pests and manages water and nutrient absorption, as well as photosynthesis.

Effective organic fertilizers contain a variety of nutrient-rich ingredients that lead to a self-sustaining soil and healthy houseplants. Look for fertilizers that contain at least some of the following: alfalfa meal, kelp meal, guano, magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt), cottonseed meal, fishmeal, bloodmeal, bonemeal, worm castings, humic acid, green sand, rock dust and mycorrhizae. The latter ingredient consists of microscopic fungi that are found naturally in outdoor soil. These tiny fungi encourage stronger, healthier houseplants by facilitating abundant, vigorous root development.

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(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Feed most houseplants once a month from March through October. Signs that your houseplants require feeding include yellowing leaves and weak overall growth. When these symptoms appear, ensure that you are watering your houseplants properly and that they are receiving sufficient light, as improper watering and lighting can also lead to these symptoms. When feeding your houseplants, wet the soil well prior, even when using a liquid food. If you use a granular fertilizer, ensure that the nutrients get to the root zone by creating small tunnels in the soil with a pencil or similar object and sprinkling the fertilizer in the holes. Water well after feeding with a granular organic fertilizer. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

How to Stake Your Houseplants

At some point, your houseplant friends need a little support–and like friends, some need more support than others. Many indoor plants grow well without any staking, but there are those that require something to cling to in order to grow upright or in a certain direction.

Reasons to support your houseplants vary. The most common are to keep plants upright, so they don’t fall over and uproot, and to make them grow in a certain direction—for instance straight up or along a wall. How much support a houseplant requires often depends on how that plant grows in its natural habitat. For instance, vines will often require more support and training than plants that naturally grow upright in the wild. Keep these tips in mind when staking your houseplants. To stake a plant so that it stays upright, insert the stake in the soil within an inch or two from the base of the plant. Secure the stake to the stem with green garden tape, which stretches and allows for growth.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

To secure a plant that trails or climbs, use a trellis or wind the plant up the stake and secure with green garden tape. Or encourage a vine to climb across a wall by installing strategically placed nails or hooks onto which you secure the plant. Plants that do well with such training include pothos, hoya, English ivy and arrowhead plant. Certain plants, such as orchids and split-leaf philodendron, have what are known as aerial roots. These are roots that grow from the base of the plant and in the wild absorb moisture and nutrients. In the home environment, it’s best to train these aerial roots to grow up a moss-covered pole, which you can make or buy at the nursery or home and garden center. When using a moss-covered pole, keep it moist by misting the pole daily with water.

(Julie Bawden-Davis )

A wide variety of stakes and trellises exist. You’ll find them made from various materials, including bamboo, wood, metal, wire and plastic, and they come in many styles, colors, shapes and sizes. You can even make your own stakes from branches and twigs from the garden. If you wish to shape them, do so when they are still green. Minimize root damage when installing stakes and supports by inserting them carefully into the soil. Avoid poking around in the root zone. Try to choose the best location initially. When you insert the stake, immediately secure the plant to the stake with green garden tape. Tie the stake to the plant in two to three locations to minimize breakage. Keep in mind that the stake will have to be repositioned as the plant grows. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

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Provide proper lighting

Water when necessary

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