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5 Herbs to Grow in Your Kitchen this Fall and Winter

(Miracle-Gro)

When the weather is cold and gloomy outside, Ashleigh Lemon finds that seeing, smelling and tasting certain herbs brings a breath of fresh air to her kitchen and home.

“Growing herbs and plants indoors is great for your health and mood,” says Lemon, who is a Senior Biology Specialist for Scotts Miracle-Gro. “For me personally, having a bit of green indoors helps me get through the winter months. I also like how I can snip just what I want, rather than buying fresh herbs and having some of them go to waste.”

Woody herbs tend to do best indoors during the cold months, because their leaves and the plants overall are hardier than tender herbs like basil. “Woody, more cold-tolerant herbs that perform well inside during the winter include rosemary, thyme, oregano, chives and parsley,” says Lemon.

(FreeImages.com/Melanie Martinelli)

To have luck growing these five herbs indoors this fall and coming winter, Lemon suggests keeping the following cultivation tips in mind.

Provide Bright Light

To grow these five herbs in available light, put them up next to a Southern-facing window. If you don’t have sufficient light indoors, grow the herbs under full-spectrum lighting. Place the lights 3 to 6 inches above the top of the herbs.

Where to Find Herbs for Indoor Growing

These herbs may be available at your local nursery or home and garden store. If not, and you have them growing in your garden, Lemon suggests digging up a section of plant and potting it up. “Transplants tend to adjust faster and produce more quickly indoors,” she says.

(FreeImages.com/Iva Villi)

“Use a high-quality indoor potting mix to transplant in a 6- to 8-inch pot that has drainage holes,” says Lemon. “A lot of these herbs don’t like ‘wet feet’ or soil that stays too moist. Adequate drainage holes are key to ensuring healthy roots.”

Water Only as Needed

Water your herb plants when the top one inch of soil is dry. “Stick your finger an inch into the soil,” says Lemon. “If the soil is moist, wait to water.” If the soil is dry, water with lukewarm water.

(FreeImages.com/Stephanie Berghaeuser)

Fertilize Regularly

“Herbs will keep producing yummy foliage for your recipes if you feed them on a regular basis,” says Lemon, who uses Miracle-Gro Singles for feeding, as they’re pre-measured.

Trim Often

Don’t be afraid to trim your herbs. As a matter of fact, it makes them grow more when you snip on a regular basis. “I trim my herbs back by one-third of the plant every two to three weeks, regardless if I’m using the herb in a recipe,” says Lemon. “Trimming promotes new growth and keeps your herbs from flowering. This ensures that tasty aromatic leaves keep coming.”

(FreeImages.com/Melanie Martinelli)

If you’re growing your herbs from a small transplant or seed, wait until the plant is at least 6 inches high before harvesting any foliage. When young, the plant requires sufficient leaves to photosynthesize and grow.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com. Her backyard is a Certified Wildlife Habitat by the National Wildlife Federation.

Project Link

Date: OCTOBER 20, 2017

Grow Polka Dot Plant in Your Indoor Garden

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

It’s hard not to become bewitched by certain indoor plants. Polka dot plant (hypoestes phyllostachya) is one of those houseplants. As its name suggests, the plant sports polka-dotted foliage.

If polka dots aren’t enough to turn your head, you’ll find polka dot plant in several striking color combos. These include pink and green, pink and white, green and white and red and green.

Intrigued yet? I hope so. Pink polka dot plant is well worth adding to your indoor garden. Not only is it eye-catching, it’s also easy to grow. The plant grows readily in it native habitat in Madagascar. Indoors, it doesn’t grow quite as quickly, but it will thrive if given the proper care.

Keep the following tips in mind when growing polka dot plant as a houseplant.

Provide good lighting

Bright, indirect light is ideal for pink polka dot plant. This will keep the colors vibrant in the plant, while at the same time prevent the plant from becoming lanky. If you grow the polka dot plant in a low-light location, it will grow leggy quickly and fade in color. A location with light that’s too bright will also fade the foliage colors.

Place polka dot plant a couple of feet away from an unobstructed southern or eastern exposure window. Or grow the plant under full-spectrum lighting.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Plant in rich, well-draining soil

Polka dot plant requires even moisture to grow well. This is best delivered by planting in a soil that is rich, yet well-draining. An organic potting soil is ideal.

Water regularly

Though they require even moisture, polka dot plant will easily succumb to root rot if conditions are too wet. Water when the top ¼ to ½ inch of soil has dried out. Keep in mind that the smaller the container the more quickly the plant will dry out.

Fertilize monthly

Polka dot plant is a fairly heavy feeder. Fertilize once a month with a high-quality organic fertilizer designed for houseplants.

(Julie Bawden-Davis )

Provide high humidity and moderate temperature

Polka dot plant requires moist air and temperatures around 75 degrees Fahrenheit to grow well. Keep the plant in a warm location and boost the humidity. This can be done by creating a humidity tray, misting several times a day and grouping plants together. Plants transpire and humidify one another.

Pinch back weekly

Polka dot plant gets leggy quickly. In order to prevent this from happening, pinch the plant back on a weekly basis. Use your fingers to snip off the top two leaves on the end of each stem. Regular pruning will encourage the polka dot plant to become bushier.

Project Link

Date: OCTOBER 13, 2017

Container Gardening Success with GROW Duo

(GROW Duo)

In our connected, virtual world, it was only a matter of time before digital would meet gardening. A love of cooking with fresh veggies and herbs inspired Idan Cohen and AndrewWanliss-Orlebar to create GROW Duo. The outdoor connected self-watering planter allows you to easily and successfully grow a wide variety of homegrown, organic produce.

GROW Duo features sensors that monitor environmental conditions so the system knows when to water itself. An app provides you with tailored, data-driven growing guidance and recommendations.

(GROW Duo)

Cohen is CEO and co-founder of GROW. He was inspired to create a foolproof way to grow homegrown produce when he moved into an apartment in New York City a few years ago.

“As an enthusiastic cook, I was always in pursuit of the best ingredients,” says Cohen. “My apartment had a large rooftop, and I was inspired to grow some of the varieties of vegetables and herbs that I missed from my childhood in Israel. I wanted to build a garden, but quickly realized it wasn’t as easy as I thought it would be. I decided to create a product that would address the needs of an aspirational gardener.”

(GROW Duo)

Soon after his “green” epiphany, Cohen met Wanliss-Orlebar. The duo then set out to create an easy-to-use outdoor home gardening system.

The fact that the resulting product is virtually connected was a natural development.

“While humans have grown their own food for thousands of years, these days we’re much more likely to shop for food (even online) than grow our own,” says Cohen. “That’s why we built the GROW Duo. The system provides an easy way for digital natives, technology enthusiasts and food lovers of all ages to get back in touch with this age-old process.”

(GROW Duo)

The GROW Duo gives you step-by-step guidance for learning how to grow your own organic produce, including herbs and leafy greens. The system is self-watering, and the app is full of growing advice and recommendations.

Project Link

Date: OCTOBER 8, 2017

Time to Prepare Your Landscape and Home Exterior For Winter

(FreeImages.com/Severin Winkler)

Your summer flowers may have just faded, so it’s hard to believe, but Old Man Winter is on his way. Take care of the following chores to prepare and protect your landscape and home’s exterior now, and you can sit back and enjoy the coming cold season.

Fertilize the lawn

Feeding the lawn after the last mowing of the year protects it from frost and helps ensure a lush yard come spring, says Michael Green, president of The Grounds Guys.

“Fertilization in the fall helps strengthen the roots of the lawn, which allows for a strong base so your lawn will thrive come spring,” says Green. “Use a slow-release fertilizer, and water well after application.”

Aerate compacted soil

“Over time, soil becomes compacted and makes it difficult for water to reach plant roots,” says Green. Aerating soil loosens the earth and allows water and nutrients to reach the roots of grass and other landscape plants, such as shrubbery.

Overseed the lawn

After aerating the soil, Green recommends overseeding to thicken up the lawn in fall, which will produce a healthier lawn come spring. “When overseeding, ensure that the seed is in contact with the soil and has space to germinate and grow,” says Green.

(FreeImages.com/Lukas Scheinecker)

Prune lightly

Prepare your bushes and shrubs for winter storms by lightly pruning to thin them. This will allow the wind to move through them, rather than break stems and branches or uproot the plant. When pruning a plant heading into dormancy, remove no more than 1/3 of the plant.

Protect rose bushes

Clip off any dead growth. “Then protect the bush by packing with mulch or covering with Styrofoam covers to make sure the roots don’t freeze,” says Green.

Use leaves as fertilizer

“As leaves begin to fall, it’s okay to put them to work as mulch in the yard, because it makes food for the grass,” says Green. “When the last heavy leaves drop, though, they need to be removed from the lawn, as they can do more harm than good when they smother the lawn before the snow falls.”

(FreeImages.com/Pascal Thauvin)

Clear vegetation from the house

“Trees and shrubs too close to your home can damage your house when there are icy conditions or heavy snow,” says Scott Johnson, director of operations for WIN Home Inspection. “Make sure branches are well away from your roof and windows.”

Clean out your gutters

If you can safely do so, clear your gutters of plant debris, so that when it rains, the water can flow through them and away from your home. Water should drain at least six feet away from your house. Also remove plant debris from your roof, and check for any structural problems while you’re up there. If you have a chimney, have it swept.

(FreeImages.com/George Bosela)

Protect your pipes

“Pipes located outside of a heated home (attics, crawl spaces, basements) or in outside walls are susceptible to freezing in extreme temperatures,” says Johnson. “For exposed pipes, add extra insulation and in unusually cold temperatures, let water drip from the faucets to prevent freezing.”

Store your hose

Prevent your hoses from breaking when it gets cold by removing and storing them. To do so, turn the spigot off. Disconnect the hose and remove the attachments. Make sure all water has drained from the hose before coiling it up and storing it in a warm location.

Project Link

Date: SEPTEMBER 29, 2017

Plant Ornamental Grass in Your Fall Garden

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

An often overlooked aspect of an engaging landscape is sound. Birds singing and water running bring a soothing element to the garden. While most plants tend to be silent, ornamental grasses do a good job of adding “music” to the garden.

With the slightest of breezes, you can hear ornamental grasses like red fountain grass rustling. Ornamental grasses also add beauty to the garden, including winter interest. When other plants have lost their foliage, ornamental grasses covered in snow and ice make stunning focal points.

Once established, ornamental grass is drought tolerant and requires very little care. Occasional pruning is all you’ll have to do. The plant rarely attracts pests and doesn’t require fertilizing.

There’s a lot to choose from when it comes to ornamental grasses, says Chris Link, co-owner with Richard Anderson of the online plant nursery, Plant Addicts. “Many gardeners just think of Karl Foerster Reed Grass, but there’s many different varieties of ornamental grasses, with wide selections in height, texture and foliage colors.”

(FreeImages.com/Julie Freeman-Woolpert)

You’ll find tall selections perfect for adding height and contrast to the garden and short varieties ideal for borders or defining edges in garden beds.

Many varieties are natives, notes Link. These include blue grama grass, northern sea oats, little bluestem, purple lovegrass, prairie dropseed, red switchgrass, blue indiangrass and big bluestem grass.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

“While the natives are great, breeders are also continually creating new ornamental grass plants with darker, brighter, more eye-catching foliage colors,” he says.

To have luck planting and growing ornamental grass, keep the following tips in mind.

Plant in full sun. Most ornamental grasses require a bright location to do well, although there are a few that can take part-sun, notes Link.

(FreeImages.com/Julie Freeman-Woolpert)

Provide good drainage. Like many plants, ornamental grasses do best in a well-draining site. Test the site by digging a 12-inch hole and filling it with water. It should drain within an hour. To create better drainage in a slow-draining area, amend with pumice.

Maintain even moisture prior to planting. “When you first get the grass from the mail (or garden center or friend), make sure the soil in the pot stays moist,” says Link. “Ornamental grass is very hardy against drought once established, but not as much when growing in pots.”

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Plant. Dig a hole slightly larger than the rootball of the plant. Insert the ornamental grass and refill with soil, patting firmly as you do so. Water well after planting, and keep the soil evenly moist until the plant becomes established. You’ll know the ornamental grass is established when it begins putting on new growth.

Prune occasionally. Ornamental grass requires pruning to remove dead grass and to create a desired shape and size. Good pruning times are early spring and midsummer. To more easily cut the grass back, avoid a mess and make disposal easier, Link suggests tying the grass together before cutting.

Project Link

Date: SEPTEMBER 23, 2017

Grow Carrots in Your Fall Garden

(FreeImages/Jeremy Doorten)

My first experience with homegrown vegetables straight from the garden occurred on a fall day when I was about 8. We lived in rural Massachusetts at the time. I had watched our neighbor cultivate her garden all summer long. One early September day, I mustered the courage to ask her how to plant vegetables.

This prompted her to give me a mini gardening lesson that left me salivating at the thought of sampling some of her homegrown produce. She must have read my mind, because she told me I could eat whatever I wanted from the garden.

The next morning when no one was about, I climbed through the slats in the fence surrounding her Garden of Eden. My breath caught at the heady smell of fresh earth and rows of lettuce and carrots glistening in the sun. I felt like Peter Rabbit in Mr. McGregor’s garden. Except I had permission, and the mistress of the garden was happy, not grouchy.

(FreeImages /Morton Strunge Meyer)

I spied a big carrot bulging out of the soil—its green top standing straighter and taller than the others. Kneeling in the soft, well-tilled earth, my heart raced as I slid the bright orange vegetable out of the soil.

Brushing the dirt off, I took a big bite, the resounding crunch splitting the quiet as my taste buds danced. So this was what a carrot truly tasted like! Years later, I learned that commercial carrots are more fibrous, because they need to ship well. Garden carrots are tender and sweet.

If you’d like to enjoy the unadulterated taste of carrot, now’s the time to plant them. They grow best in cool weather. Here’s your “mini gardening lesson” on growing this beta carotene-rich veggie.

Take your pick. You won’t find carrots growing in the nursery. You need to plant them from seed. The exciting thing about that is you can choose from a wide variety of carrot types.

(Julie Bawden-Davis )

Grow standard straight, long, orange carrots, or try white, purple, crimson or yellow. You’ll also find a wide variety of shapes, such as round, golf-ball sized carrots and “finger” type, miniature carrots.

Consider climate. Smaller carrot varieties are a good choice if you live in a climate with cold winters. They’ll be ready for harvest sooner than the standard types. Standard types take 65 to 80 days to harvest, while small carrots can be ready to eat in 50 days. It’s also not necessary to leave carrots to grow full size. They can be eaten at any stage. The younger the carrot, the more sweet and tender it will be.

Prepare the soil. Carrots are roots, so they require loose, rich, fast-draining soil to grow well. If your soil is hard clay, the carrot won’t be able to grow straight. Rocky soil will cause forks in the carrots. Till in generous amounts of compost, so that the soil is loose for 12-18 inches.

(FreeImages/Klaus Post)

If you have particularly hard clay or rocky soil, consider growing the carrots in containers or raised beds. Or opt for short, baby carrot types.

Add bone meal to the soil, according to package directions. It’s high in phosphorus and will promote strong root growth.

Seed carefully. Carrot seeds are tiny and hard to see. You’ll find carrot seed tape composed of biodegradable tissue paper. Seeds are embedded into the paper.

I like to put a small amount of carrot seed in the palm of my hand and then sprinkle them over the soil surface with my fingers. After seeding, cover the soil surface with a very thin (1/8^th-inch) layer of seed starting mix.

Keep well watered. Mist the soil covering the carrot seed after planting and keep the soil moist during the germination process. To ensure that the soil surface doesn’t dry out, cover the area with a thin layer of moist newspaper or burlap. Remove as soon as the seeds germinate.

(FreeImages /Jeremy Doorten)

Have patience. Carrot seeds can take 12 to 18 days to germinate.

Thin. To have a good crop, it’s necessary to thin carrots. When they reach 1 to 2 inches tall, thin to 2 inches apart.

Fertilize. Feed carrots every three weeks with a liquid all-purpose vegetable food that contains phosphorus (the middle number of the N-P-K ratio).

Maintain even soil moisture. Dry conditions will cause carrots to split. Overly wet conditions will cause them to rot.

Keep the growing area weed-free. Pull weeds as soon as they appear. They will compete with carrots for moisture.

Project Link

Date: SEPTEMBER 11, 2017

Grow Maidenhair Fern in Your Indoor Garden

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

With their emerald-green, wispy foliage, maidenhair ferns are captivating. They make a gorgeous addition to any indoor garden. Whether you grow them on their own or combine them in a mixed container—they’re sure to attract attention.

Of all ferns grown as houseplants, maidenhair fern is the most difficult to grow. For the best of luck growing maidenhair fern in your home, keep the following growing tips in mind.

Carefully watch watering. The most important tip to remember when growing maidenhair fern is to make sure that you never let the plant’s soil dry out. When maidenhair fern experiences drought, the plant collapses and is unlikely to come back. If it does revive, it will be in a limited capacity.

(FreeImages.com/Denise Hunter)

Water maidenhair fern on a regular basis. Keep the plant’s soil moist but not soggy. Remember that heating and air-conditioning will dry these plants out quickly.

Mulch. Adding a 1-inch layer of mulch to the soil surface of the maidenhair fern will help keep the soil moist. The mulch also breaks down and feeds the soil, which then feeds the plant. Good mulch choices are shredded bark or leaf mold. Prior to adding mulch, water maidenhair fern well. Then add the mulch and water again to seal the mulch to the soil.

Provide proper lighting. To thrive, maidenhair fern requires medium lighting. Direct, bright light, such as from a western window, will quickly burn the delicate foliage. Southern and eastern windows will work, as long as you place the plant three to four feet away. Unobstructed northern windows often work well.

Watch the temperature. Maidenhair ferns don’t like to get chilled and will do poorly if the temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They do best in 70 degrees and above.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Provide high humidity. Maidenhair fern thrives in humid conditions. If you live in a dry climate and during the winter months when the heater is on, it’s important to provide additional humidity. You can do this by placing the plants over humidity trays and misting frequently. Also keep in mind that plants humidify one another—so grouping your houseplants helps.

Fertilize regularly. Feed maidenhair fern with an organic liquid fertilizer at half-strength. Apply monthly.

Repot every three to six months. Maidenhair fern requires rich soil conditions to do well. This means that it’s important to repot them regularly. You’ll know it’s time to repot the fern when water quickly runs through the pot and you’re having to water more and more frequently.

Plant maidenhair fern in the same size pot, or just one inch larger. Use a high-quality, organic potting soil.

Project Link

Date: SEPTEMBER 15, 2017

Add Humorous Signs to Your Garden

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Signs can point you in the right direction and offer important information. They can also make you laugh. Add some levity to your garden by installing a few strategically placed signs. Humorous signs can give your garden that extra something special. Signs also give you a chance to express your personality. And they don’t need watering or pruning.

Here are a few sign ideas sure to give you and your garden guests a good chuckle.

Croplifters Will Be Propagated

This was my first introduction to funny signs. I spied it several years ago in the centuries old Chelsea Physic Garden. It’s an apothecaries’ garden located in London dating back to 1673. There they grew, and still do, medicinal herbs.

I’m not sure when they hung the sign at the Chelsea, but obviously someone (perhaps under the influence of a medicinal plant from the garden) had a good sense of humor. I now have this sign hanging in my garden where it’s readily visible to visitors. It always gets a good laugh. For young ones who see the sign, it offers a chance for a botany lesson when they ask (with some trepidation) what propagated means.

Psycho Path

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

I ran across this sign with its marvelous play on words during the annual Garden Writers Association Symposium in Atlanta last year. The sign pointed to a lovely garden path that while a bit carefree and spontaneous, never did get spooky or scary. I have to admit that I continued to giggle for quite some time after running into that sign.

Now Entering the Seedy Part of Town

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Talk to my neighbors when I’ve been too busy writing about gardening to actual do some gardening of my own, and they might agree with this sign. This is another great play on words that I saw in an Atlanta garden. The landscape was a well-manicured one, which made the juxtaposition of the words on the sign and the garden even more comical.

Gardeners Know all the Good Dirt

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

My sister, Katie, got me this sign for my birthday one year. Having been in the gardening community for quite some time, I have to say that this double entendre is fairly accurate. While you learn gardening secrets from a master gardener, you’ll most likely hear all about the secret life of the crazy next door neighbor.

In our defense, we gardeners just can’t help ourselves. For one thing, we’re outside at odd hours of the day and night—so we see a lot of what’s going on in the neighborhood. Carefully inspecting plants to see if they require fertilizer or need a repotting has also developed in us great observational powers. And then information just seems to just come to us—like the birds, butterflies and bees that land in our gardens.

Would You Break the Rules Here?

(FreeImages.com/Henrik Bernhard)

While the sign itself is funny, I really like the photographer’s comment. It’s hard to tell if the sign was installed because someone did indeed break the rules, or if they’re trying to avoid a lawsuit. Either way, the sign can’t help but make you smile.

Project Link

Date: SEPTEMBER 4, 2017

House Jungle: Fill Your Home with Houseplants

If you’re looking for a book for young and beginning gardeners, House Jungle: Turn Your Home Into a Plant-Filled Paradise is the perfect choice. This well-illustrated, 103-page book provides the basics in a fun, easy-to-understand way.

The author, Annie Dornan-Smith, is an illustrator by trade. The result is an eye-catching little book that gets right to the matter at hand—successfully growing houseplants in your indoor garden.

This fun book covers why you want to keep houseplants. Some reasons include the fact that plants need tender loving care like puppies. “If you can’t keep a plant alive, you’re not ready for a dog!” states Dornan-Smith. Plants also clean the air, and they decorate your home.

You’ll get a mini lesson on containers in House Jungle. This includes the fact that houseplants need containers with drainage holes, so they don’t become waterlogged. Dornan-Smith notes that plastic and glazed ceramic pots keep the soil wetter longer. So if you’re growing succulents and cactus that are susceptible to root rot, opt for terra-cotta. The latter pots are made from a porous material that dries out more quickly.

The care section of the book covers the important lesson of light exposure in your home. Familiarize yourself with where your north, south, east and west facing windows are. East- and west-facing windows get shade at some point during the day, so this is something to consider if you want to grow plants in front of windows in these locations. In the northern hemisphere, south-facing windows can get some strong, bright sunlight and north-facing windows tend to feature low light.

The book also gives sage advice on watering and fertilizing. And Dornan-Smith shares some advice on where to buy plants and how to make more for free by propagating them. This section includes drawings that illustrate how to propagate.

Choose the best selections for your indoor gardener by perusing the “Types of House Plants” chapter. In this section, you’re introduced to the various plants that can be grown successfully indoors and their needs.

For instance, there’s a section on cacti and succulents, bonsai, air plants, bamboo, herbs and some of the many jungle plants that thrive indoors. These include sansevieria, spider plant, peace lily, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, English ivy, ZZ plant, philodendron, pothos and wax plant.

Project Link

Date: AUGUST 25, 2017

Grow Gaillardia in Your Late Summer and Fall Garden

(Julie-Bawden Davis)

Also known as blanket flower, Gaillardia is an eye-catching daisy-like flower that lights up the summer and early fall garden. Featuring orange, red and yellow, the flower makes a perfect complement to autumn decorating.

Gaillardia is a perennial, so if you plant the flower this year, you’ll see its pert, pretty face for years to come. Butterflies and bees will also be happy. They gravitate toward the colorful blooms.

In addition to thriving in the ground, Gaillardia does well in containers. Plant a mass of gaillardia in a window box, and you’ll notice the floral display from a distance. Or decorate a patio table with a pot of gaillardia.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Here are some tips for successfully growing gaillardia in your summer and fall garden.

Provide full sun. Gaillardia requires bright light to bloom well.

Plant in well-draining soil. Blanket flowers must have good drainage to thrive. If the soil is heavy clay, amend with perlite or pumice. Test the drainage at the planting site by digging a 6- to 9-inch hole and filling it with water. It should drain within an hour. If it doesn’t, amend the soil some more or choose another planting site.

Avoid adding extra nutrients to the soil, like compost, as gaillardia does best in soil that isn’t rich. The plant requires a pH of neutral or slightly alkaline.

Water occasionally. Gaillardia is drought tolerant once established. Water on a regular basis until the plants establish. You’ll know they’re established when they’ve put on new growth. After that, water when the top 3 inches or so of soil has dried out. Water containerized gaillardia when the top 1-2 inches of soil has dried out. Avoid overwatering, which will lead to root rot.

(FreeImages.com/Dennis Kamberg)

Fertilize once in spring. Gaillardia isn’t a heavy feeder. Fertilize once in spring with a mild fertilizer, such as worm compost.

Deadhead regularly. Pinching off spent gaillardia blooms will cause the plant to initiate new blooms. Doing this also keeps the plant looking tidy and attractive. Harvesting gaillardia flowers when they’re at their prime also causes the plant to put on new buds. Gaillardia is a long-lasting cut and dried flower.

Cut back in early fall. If you live in a climate with cold winters, cut gaillardia back in early fall to about 6 inches. You can do this after the plant finishes flowering. This will help gaillardia make it through winter, so it can grace your garden with blooms starting early next summer.

Project Link

Date: AUGUST 21, 2017

Grow Sweet Potato Vines Indoors

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Looking for a fun project that kids and adults love? Try growing sweet potato vine indoors. All you need is a sweet potato that’s sprouting, a jar and some toothpicks. And just a tad of patience.

Grow sweet potato vine indoors, and you’ll soon have a sprawling vine with lime-green or purple-tinged leaves. Here’s how to enjoy growing this fun vine as a houseplant.

Get an organic sweet potato. Chemically treated sweet potatoes sprayed with a sprout retardant will be sterile and won’t sprout. Look for sweet potatoes with root nodes (eyes) that appear to be swelling. This indicates that leaves or roots will soon sprout from the nodes.

If you have an old sweet potato you didn’t get around to cooking and it has started to sprout little leaves or roots, even better. It might not be good for eating at this point, but it’s ripe for growing!

Fill a rooting jar with lukewarm water. Choose a vessel that is at least 4 inches deep, so that the roots can grow downwards without obstruction.

Take out some sturdy toothpicks. Beginning two to three inches up from the bottom of the sweet potato, insert the toothpicks at regular intervals.

Insert the sweet potato in the water, so the tip is submerged. Adjust the toothpicks as necessary. In a couple of week, roots will begin to emerge from the root nodes near the water. Leaves will grow out of root nodes at the top of the sweet potato.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Place the sweet potato in a sunny location. The leaves require regular light for the plant to grow well. If necessary, supplement with artificial lighting.

Maintain clean water. Twice weekly, empty the water in the sweet potato jar and refill with fresh, lukewarm water. If the water becomes stagnant, the sweet potato may not grow. The water can also become smelly if it sits too long. Avoid using softened water. It’s high in salts, which inhibits rooting and healthy growth.

Move to a larger jar/vase. When the roots have grown full and lush, ensure that they have plenty of room to grow by moving to a larger vessel. Also give the vines room to spread out. You can stake them or let them hang from a high location. When working with the vines, keep in mind that the stems are fairly breakable.

Fertilize. Once a month, add a drop of an organic, all-purpose liquid or water soluble granular fertilizer. Fertilize right after changing the water.

Project Link

Date: AUGUST 11, 2017

5 Gorgeous Flowering Shrubs to Plant This Fall

(Nature Hills)

If you think you missed your window of opportunity to plant shrubs last spring, good news. Fall is another perfect time for planting. Since it’s still summer, this gives you some time to decide on the perfect shrubs to add to your garden.

“After the heat of summer subsides, plants like to acclimate into a new location. The soil is still warm, so roots establish quickly,” says Jeff Dinslage, president of NatureHills.com, a source for trees, shrubs and perennial plants. The jumpstart on root production helps the plants get through the coming cold months. In spring, they will thrive and fill your garden with blooms.

Here are five flowering shrubs Dinslage recommends planting this fall.

Black Diamond ‘Best Red’ Crape Myrtle

Add drama to your landscape in spring with the fiery, red blooms of this myrtle. According to Dinslage, the shrub is a traffic-stopper with its inky foliar backdrop against vivid red blooms from spring to fall.

Allow Black Diamond ‘Best Red’ to reach its full height of 10 feet. Or prune the plant back in winter, and it will grow to be a 3-foot-tall hedge. This crape myrtle also grows well in containers. Use the plant to add pizzazz to the patio.

‘Best Red’ is low maintenance and highly resistant to mildew. It’s also drought tolerant once established. The plant is cold hardy in USDA Zones 6-9.

‘Vanilla Strawberry’ Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Renhy’)

Some plants, like ‘Vanilla Strawberry’ Hydrangea (pictured at top) are true superstars. “This is our number one best seller. We’ve never had a plant go viral on social media the way this hydrangea has,” says Dinslage. “The Facebook post was viewed by more than 250,000 people and shared 2,000 times.”

‘Vanilla Strawberry’ remains covered in giant pink and white flowers all summer long. In addition to being pretty, this plant is versatile. It will grow in just about any area of your yard, providing it gets at least a half day of morning sun. Use the plant as a focal point, or plant several to create a stunning 6- to 7-foot-tall hedge. ‘Vanilla Strawberry’ is cold hardy in USDA Zones 4-8.

Dwarf Blue-Flowered Chaste Tree

A Chaste Tree always attracts attention, but many are too large for small yards. Vitex ‘Blue Puffball’ is a dwarf blue chaste tree that grows just 3- to 4-feet tall and wide. This shrub works well in flower borders, as a foundation plant, or in containers.

(Nature Hills)

Starting in June and continuing through September, ‘Blue Puffball’ is covered in spiral-like blue flowers that resemble candles. Prune in early spring to encourage a lot of blooms. The shrub is tolerant of hot, dry locations where other shrubs don’t do well. It’s cold hardy in USDA Zones 6-9.

Miniature Snowflake Mock Orange

If you’re looking for a flowering deciduous shrub perfect for a low hedge or foundation planting, the Miniature Snowflake Mock Orange is a good choice. It reaches 2- to 3-feet tall with a 1- to 2-foot spread and grows in a rounded, compact shape. The plant is covered in double white flower cluster in early spring.

(Nature Hills)

Miniature Snowflake’s blooms are aromatic, attracting bees and butterflies and providing them with vital nourishment. The shrub fills out with 5-inch, oval, green leaves throughout summer. The Miniature Snowflake is hardy, tolerating a wide range of soils and environments. It’s cold hardy in USDA Zones 4-8.

‘Neon Flash’ Spirea

A fast-growing, small shrub, ‘Neon Flash’ Spirea makes a great backdrop for annual and perennial flower beds. The plant is so named because of its flashy, hot-pink bloom clusters that cover the plant spring through early summer. The flowers are butterfly magnets.

(Nature Hills)

‘Neon Flash’ Spirea’s 5-inch-long, lance-shaped leaves are also colorful, sporting a reddish hue in spring and then becoming a bright green in the summer months. Once fall hits, the leaves turn a deep burgundy.

This spirea grows up to 3-feet tall and wide. Without pruning, ‘Neon Flash’ creates a rounded form that drapes to the ground, but you can trim to just about any shape you desire. ‘Neon Flash’ is cold hardy in USDA Zones 4-8.

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Date: AUGUST 6, 2017

Hummingbird-Friendly Plants for Your Garden

(Free Images/Cheryl Empey)

Although I discovered that hummingbirds flap their wings more than 50 times per second, I must admit I didn’t really believe that statistic until the day a hummingbird hovered right next to my ear. The distinctive whir I heard made me a believer.

Besides the chance of a having these winged creatures stop by your ear—or hover in front of your face—seeing hummingbirds flit about the garden is delightful. These birdies sustain their hyper-metabolisms by dipping their beaks into 1,000 to 2,000 flowers a day.

(Free Images/Evfab4)

If you’re thinking that hummingbirds need your help maintaining their “high-flying lifestyle,” you’re correct. The more hummingbird-friendly plants you include in your landscape, the more of these little beauties you’ll attract.

Here are some of the top hummingbird plants sure to land your yard on the “A” list of hummingbird dining. Keep in mind that hummingbirds gravitate toward tubular flowers. The color red is one of their favorites (hence the red hummingbird feeders.)

Bee Balm (Monarda)

In addition to attracting bees, this pretty perennial lures hummingbirds. Bee balmis a bushy plant with leaves featuring the aroma of mint or mint/basil. Most bee balm has red, white or pink blooms. The plant grows in full sun or morning sun and afternoon shade.

(Free Images/macmukka)

Cardinal Flower (Lobelia Cardinalis)

As its name suggests, this plant possesses vivid red flowers that are also tubular. It blooms throughout the summer months, providing hummingbirds with sweet nectar. Cardinal flower grows in morning sun and afternoon shade.

Daylily (Hemerocallis)

Enjoy big trumpet-shaped blooms from this plant all summer long. Daylily flowers come in red, yellow, orange, pink, purple and multi-colored, variegated blooms. Plant in full sun to part shade.

Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens)

This easy-to-grow plant is well-known for its tubular white or pink flowers filled with sweet nectar that lures humans and hummingbirds. The plant comes in shrub and vine forms. Honeysuckle requires full sun to bloom well.

(Free Images/Marcelo Moura)

Mandevilla

An elegant vine, mandevilla produces trumpet-shaped flowers in red, white and pink. The plant is a good climber and provides a tropical look to the landscape. Mandevilla is often grown as an annual, although it will overwinter outdoors in mild climates and indoors.

Penstemon

Sporting bell-shaped flowers that come in many colors, including red, purple, white and pink, penstemon grows best in full sun to part-shade. There are 300 species of penstemon, so you have a lot to choose from for your garden.

(Free ImagesSascha Kunka)

Petunia

These popular bell-shaped annuals come in a wide variety of colors. You’ll find red, white, purple, pink and multi-colored blooms. Petunias grow best in full sun.

Project Link

Date: JULY 31, 2017

Add a Refreshing Fountain to Your Garden

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

In the heat of summer, a fountain splashing water holds a certain appeal. Just the idea and sound of water can cool and soothe. Fountains also add a decorative element to the landscape.

Depending on the volume of water and how far it falls, fountains can block out unwanted noise. They also attract birds, which rely on clear, running water to survive.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

A wide variety of fountains exist. You’ll find everything from ornate water features with lions that spit water, to urn-styles that create a captivating site as the water slides down the sides of the fountain. Some fountains gurgle, while others rush, splash, dribble, bubble or cascade.

To add a fountain to your landscape, keep a few things in mind. Of course, you want a visually appealing fountain, but there are other considerations.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Measure the proposed fountain site. Make sure that your planned area is large enough. Also ensure there is access to electricity. If no outlet exists, have an electrician install one in a waterproof electrical box.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Decide how loud you want the water. The volume of water and how far it falls will determine how loud of a sound it makes. The larger the pump, the more water will be moved, as well.

If you want a loud water sound, choose a fountain that holds several gallons of water and throws the water a foot or more. Also check that the fountain has a large water pump or can house one.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

For a soft water sound, choose the opposite. For instance, install a small fountain with a small pump that throws water just a few inches.

Keep in mind that if you place the fountain in a walled-in area, the sound is going to bounce off the walls and echo. Put that same fountain in a big, open space and the sound will be much lower.

Succulent garden with fountain and gravel-resized-1

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

When you find a fountain you like, have the salesperson turn off the surrounding fountains so you can hear exactly what it sounds like when it pumps water.

Watch splashing. Avoid fountains that splash a great deal. You’ll need to replace the water more frequently. Continuous splashing water may also harm surrounding hardscape or plants. You don’t want a fountain splashing onto a walkway and creating a slippery situation.

Excessive splashing can also cause the fountain to empty prematurely. If the water level gets too low, the fountain pump will burn out.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Provide a stable platform. Install the fountain on a pad of some sort, such as a sturdy stepping stone or bricks. If you place the fountain directly on the ground, it will settle over time and can become uneven.

Plan for maintenance. Place your fountain in such a way that you can get to the pump. They become clogged with debris and build-up and need periodic cleaning. You also want clearance to the fountain so you can clean and maintain it.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

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Date: JULY 30, 2017

Create a “Secret” Passageway in Your Garden

(FreeImages.com/Margo Searls-Begy)

There’s something about passageways in the garden that beckon you into a world that somehow seems magical—where everything and anything is possible. Walk through a “doorway” in the garden—be it a real door surrounded by shrubbery, or an archway, gazebo or arbor draped in vines, and you feel like you just might run into Alice or Peter Rabbit.

(FreeImages.com/Steve Knight)

It’s easier than you might think to create an air of mystery and excitement in your garden by adding doors and passageways. Here are some tips.

Though they don’t require it, “secret” passageways with doors are especially intriguing. Your mind immediately goes to the question, what lies behind the door? And you can’t help but feel a mix of excitement and perhaps a tiny bit of trepidation as you approach the door and open it.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Adding doors in the garden is a little bit of work, but the effects are visually captivating. Types of doors to consider are old wooden ones with a distressed look, doors with stained glass and wrought iron doors.

(FreeImages.com/Margo Searls-Begy)

You’ll need something for the doors to attach to, such as a frame of some sort. This could be a metal, wooden or concrete frame. Whatever frame you choose, make sure that it’s firmly planted in the ground. You wouldn’t want a door toppling on you or a visitor to your garden.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

To create open passageways, you have a number of options for doing so. You can use a metal or wooden arbor on which you grow vining plants. This works especially well if you have a lot of vining and draping plants growing on the arbor. You can also create a passageway using plants. Do this with sturdy choices like hedges or shrubbery in which you plan for or prune out an opening.

(FreeImages.com/Rob Waterhouse)

When you create a passageway, don’t disappoint. Have the doorway lead to a destination, such as a seating area, pond, statue, flower garden, fruit tree orchard or vegetable garden. Make the adventure even more delightful by having the garden visitor walk through the passageway onto a path that meanders its way to the final destination.

(Julie Schlueter)

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Project Link

Date: JULY 29, 2017

7 Ways to Vacation-Proof Your Yard and Garden

(FreeImages.com/Teri Gosse)

Does this post-vacation scenario sound familiar?

Feeling ultra-relaxed and refreshed, you look forward to going home—until you see your yard and garden. The sight of your bedraggled landscape immediately extinguishes any remaining traces of a vacation buzz.

Extend the good vibes you feel after going away by ensuring that you vacation-proof your garden, says Ryan Larsen, a civil engineer at NDS, Inc., who is also known as “Dr. Drainage” in NDS’s YouTube instructional video series about drainage and stormwater management products.

“While you’re taking time to rest and recharge on vacation, ensure that the health of your yard, landscape and garden doesn’t deteriorate while you’re away,” says Larsen. “Just as you get a sitter for pets when you’re on vacation, remember that your plants, lawn and gardens need to be looked after as well.”

To help ensure that when you return your plants are thriving, try Larsen’s tips for vacation-proofing your yard and garden.

Check the weather forecast

“It may seem like an obvious thing to do, but you’d be surprised how many people don’t think to look ahead and make preparations,” says Larsen. “Knowing if there’s a heat wave coming or a lot of rain in the near future will help determine how you prepare. Top concerns to consider prior to vacation are whether your landscape will get too much water or not enough, and what will happen if a sudden, severe storm hits.”

(NDS, Inc.)

Put a timer on your sprinklers

With a few easy steps, you can create your own automatic irrigation system, says Larsen. “Take a flexible hose and attach a soaker hose on one end and a timer on the other. Next, set the watering start time, duration and frequency before you go on vacation. Such automatic irrigation systems are easy to move around, so you can re-arrange your watering system if you later decide to change the layout of your garden.”

Mulch well

Mulched landscapes and gardens retain 25 percent more moisture than those without mulch, according to Larsen. “Mulch acts as a protective layer between the soil and the hot air. Prior to leaving for vacation, fertilize your plants and water well, allowing the moisture to seep in before applying mulch. If you don’t want to mulch the entire garden, consider mulching just the plant roots, and be careful not to bury plant crowns in mulch.”

(NDS, Inc. )

Install a dripline

Drip irrigation is an economical and efficient way to ensure that your garden gets the water it needs while you’re gone. “Since a dripline releases the water under the mulch, you will lose little water to evaporation,” says Larsen. “This method saves water and prevents run off. There are many drip irrigation kits for specific applications, such as flower beds, shrubs, trees, vegetable gardens and containers. Most come with a timer.”

Gather hanging baskets and containers

If you have pots spread throughout the yard, group containers near an automatic sprinkler before you leave, so they get watered while you’re away. When possible, put the potted plants in the shade. This protects the plants from drying out and causes them to also create their own humid microclimate.

When sprinklers aren’t available to water potted plants while you’re away, you can set them in an inflatable plastic swimming pool filled with an inch to two inches of water. Because this can cause root rot in some plants, it’s a last resort.

Avoid using this watering method with plants susceptible to root and crown rot. Limit the time plant pots sit in water to no more than seven days, and when you get home, allow them to drain well. If possible, elevate the pots when draining so that air gets to the bottom of the containers.

Potted plants before a withered, wooden door in a narrow street on Cyprus

(FreeImages.com/mooncross)

Inspect your yard for drainage issues

In some areas of the country, extreme downpours are common during the last month of summer. Prior to leaving on vacation, check for and clear your landscape of potential drainage obstructions, such as ground-level branches, leaves, trash or other debris near the house or in the gutters.

Ensure that water flows away from your house

“If water isn’t carried far enough away from your house, it can seep into your home’s foundation and flood flower beds, planter boxes and plants in containers, making a mess and creating standing water as a breeding ground for mosquitoes,” says Larsen.

“Make sure the downspouts from your gutters carry water at least 10 feet away from your home. If they don’t, install downspout extension pipes. It’s also advisable to install a catch basin. This collects water from the landscape and downspouts; connects to a drainage pipe and discharges water away from the house.”

For more information on solutions for fixing common landscape drainage problems, visit NDS’s Home Drainage Center.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

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Date: JULY 21, 2017

Tips for Growing Colorful Coleus

Not all eye-catching plants in the garden flaunt flowers. Some like coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides) decorate the landscape with a colorful tapestry of variegated foliage. This spring and summer, light up your garden with easy-to-grow coleus.

Today’s coleuses come in a wide variety of stunning color combinations. You’ll find variegated leaves featuring deep purple edged in green, lime green coleus with a hint of burgundy and multi-colored selections displaying pink, green and even chartreuse. While many coleuses grow best in shade, there are varieties that take full sun. Coleuses can also be successfully grown indoors as houseplants.

Find coleus in the nursery as grown plants, or try growing your own from seed. To have luck with coleus in the garden, keep the following tips in mind.

Plant in containers. Coleuses are tender, tropical plants originally from Southeast Asia and Malaysia, so they do best potted, as this keeps the roots warmer than when you plant them in the ground. Growing coleuses in containers also enables you to more easily transition them indoors once temperatures hit 65 degrees or below outdoors in the fall.

Pot coleuses in high-quality potting soil that provides moisture retention, yet drains well.

Provide proper lighting. Many varieties of coleus do best when grown in bright shade or dappled sunlight, as their delicate foliage will burn in direct sun. If you wish to grow them in direct sunlight, choose a cultivar developed for full sun, such as PanAmerican Seed’s ‘Chocolate Mint’ and ‘Watermelon’ coleuses.

Place indoor grown coleus in a location that receives bright light, such as in a southern or eastern window, or under full-spectrum lighting.

Water properly. The soil of coleus should remain moist but never soggy. When the top ½ inch of soil dries out, soak the pot well. Coleuses that receive insufficient water will lose leaves, becoming spindly and unattractive.

Fertilize regularly. To keep them healthy and actively growing, coleuses require feeding every two weeks from spring through late summer or early fall. For best results, use an all-purpose, organic, liquid fertilizer.

Prune often. Coleuses become rangy and unruly if not pruned on a regular basis. Pinching out the growing tips, which are the sets of two to four leaves at the tip of each branch, encourages plants to branch out and become bushy. Also remove flower stalks when they appear. If you overwinter coleus indoors, prune the plant back by one-third in early spring before placing it outdoors.

Seed your own. If you wish to plant coleus seed, keep in mind that it will take about six weeks for the seed to germinate and create plants that are large enough to plant in containers. It’s best to start the seed indoors in the late winter or early spring.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com

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Date: MAY 11, 2015

When and How to Prune Your Trees and Shrubs this Summer

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Many trees and large shrubs benefit from some summer pruning. When done for the right reasons, pruning creates healthy, vigorous plants. Summer pruning also keeps plants tidy and can allow you to provide better clearance, when necessary. Cutting back plants can also help you direct growth.

(FreeImages.com/Michal Zacharzewski)

Trees and shrubs should only be pruned if you have a good reason for doing so. Avoid pruning just because you haven’t pruned for a while. Keep in mind that not all trees and shrubs require pruning, and inappropriate pruning can misshape and unbalance plants and even open them up to pests and diseases.

To determine if and how you should prune your trees and shrubs, keep the following guidelines in mind. It’s a good idea to prune a tree or large shrub if you are:

Removing dead, diseased, crossing or rubbing branches
Improving air circulation or creating space inside of plants
Directing new growth in a more desirable direction
Shaping a plant that has become unruly
Preventing hazardous situations
Cutting out water sprouts, suckers and girdling roots, all of which can compromise the vigor and health of the plant

Guidelines for pruning:

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Use the appropriate tools. The right tools make pruning more enjoyable and safer. Small cuts should be made with hand-held pruners, while larger cuts should be made with loppers. Extra big branch cuts of more than an inch in diameter should be made with a hand saw. Also always protect your hands when pruning with durable gloves and wear protective goggles to protect your eyes.

Consider timing carefully. Wait until just after any fruiting and flowering is complete to cut back. Prune a tree or shrub that produces fruit or flowers too early, and you’ll cut off fruit and flowers. Prune the shrub or tree too late, and you may cut off growth that would have produced fruit and flowers next year.

Cut a tree or large shrub back by no more than one-third at any given pruning session. Prune to shape young trees, but never cut back a tree’s main stem or stems (its trunk) where all growth originates. Also avoid pruning off lower side branches on young trees for a few years, which leads to the growth of a broad, strong trunk.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Make cuts just above a leaf node or bud, which encourages new growth at that point. Check the direction the leaf node is pointing, because this is the way the new branch will grow.

To properly prune a large limb and avoid tearing the bark, first cut the branch a foot or so from the trunk halfway through from below.

Second, make another cut from above to meet up with the cut from below, which will sever the heavy limb and make the remaining nub easier to manage.

Third, make a final straight and clean cut just outside the branch collar, which is the swollen part at the base of the trunk. It is important not to cut into the collar, because doing so invites in pests and diseases.

Pruning houseplants. Summer is also a good time to cut back trees and shrubs in your indoor garden. Keep in mind when pruning houseplants that they grow much more slowly than outdoor plants, so avoid over-pruning.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com

Project Link

Date: JUNE 23, 2017

When and How to Prune Your Trees and Shrubs this Summer

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

(FreeImages.com/Michal Zacharzewski)

To determine if and how you should prune your trees and shrubs, keep the following guidelines in mind. It’s a good idea to prune a tree or large shrub if you are:

Removing dead, diseased, crossing or rubbing branches
Improving air circulation or creating space inside of plants
Directing new growth in a more desirable direction
Shaping a plant that has become unruly
Preventing hazardous situations
Cutting out water sprouts, suckers and girdling roots, all of which can compromise the vigor and health of the plant

Guidelines for pruning:

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Make cuts just above a leaf node or bud, which encourages new growth at that point. Check the direction the leaf node is pointing, because this is the way the new branch will grow.

To properly prune a large limb and avoid tearing the bark, first cut the branch a foot or so from the trunk halfway through from below.

Second, make another cut from above to meet up with the cut from below, which will sever the heavy limb and make the remaining nub easier to manage.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com

Grow Bromeliads in Your Late Spring Garden

Grow a bromeliad and you’re likely to be hooked for life. These colorful members of the pineapple family produce vibrant, unusual blooms that can last for months in the garden.

Bromeliads are native to South America, but grow in many climates. The most famous of all bromeliads is the pineapple, though there are many other types, including tillandias, like Spanish moss, which grows suspended from trees in its natural habitat.

Many bromeliads can be grown in soil in containers. These include guzmanias, which feature tall, eye-catching flowers, and neoregalias with their colorful foliage. Displaying an eye-catching, architectural look, bromeliads give the landscape an exotic, tropical feel.

Bromeliads are easy-care plants and do best with a little neglect. In nature, they receive nutrients from the air or in liquid form when water containing nutrients collects in the cups that form the center of their leaves. From these cups the showy flowers emerge. When the plant finishes flowering, it produces a nearby pup of foliage that eventually produces another flower.

To have luck growing bromeliads, keep the following tips in mind.

Water properly. Accustomed to jungle life, where it rains and then often dries out prior to raining again, bromeliads need to be watered in their cups and soil and then don’t water again until the flower cup and soil are dry.

Although it’s often suggested that you keep the flower cups full of water at all times, that will actually tend to rot the flowers prematurely. Overwatering causes browning of leaves and flowers.

Provide excellent drainage. Both potted and ground growing bromeliads do poorly with wet feet. Amend with pumice or perlite to encourage good drainage.

Place in proper lighting. Most bromeliads need to be grown in filtered sunlight. If you grow them in direct sun, that will usually brown the plant’s flowers and yellow its leaves.

Protect from dry winds and weather. Bromeliads shouldn’t be overwatered, but they also respond poorly to extra dry air. If you live in a climate that is dry or windy, mist the plants on low humidity days.

Plant in containers. Though bromeliads do grow in the ground, the excellent moisture they require makes it difficult to grow them successfully. Instead plant in a pot containing well-draining, organic potting soil.

Suspend tillandsias, including Spanish moss, using plastic, 20-pound-weight fishing twine. Hang the twine from a hook or loosely around the tree trunk or limb. Check periodically to make sure that the twine is still loose.

Prune and clean up periodically. Remove old flower stalks once they become unsightly. Wait to remove foliage where the old bloom grew until the plant has created a new plant nearby.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com

Gardening with Chickens

(Lisa Steele)

In the early 1990s, when I started raising backyard chickens in my Southern California garden, many people thought it an oddity. While they liked trying the eggs, I could tell that even the most adventurous gardeners weren’t quite sure about bringing what were considered farm animals into their yards.

Times have changed. Today the backyard chicken movement is growing stronger every day. As Lisa Steele says in her recent book, Gardening with Chicken: Plans and Plants for You and Your Hens, the move toward a simpler, more sustainable way of life has spurred a burgeoning interest in gardening and chicken keeping.

(Lisa Steele)

For the most part, female chickens are docile creatures intent on three tasks—eating, laying eggs, and for lack of a better term, relieving themselves. While the egg-laying obviously benefits us humans, it turns out that they’re eating and pooping is also beneficial. Because young, healthy chickens produce on average six eggs a week, they’re voracious eaters.

The pecking chickens do in the garden is usually hunting for insects, so they keep the garden cleaned up if you have an imbalance of insect pests. And their scratching in the dirt helps keep your soil loose and aerated. In addition, they’re not picky eaters. Let them loose on a weedy area, and they’ll take care of unwanted plants for you.

(Lisa Steele)

Chicken poop is also rich in nutrients, which feeds the soil and creates a nutrient-rich environment for your plants. Steele includes information on how to compost their droppings so that it can serve as a premium, “homegrown” organic fertilizerfor your plants.

(Lisa Steele)

If you’re looking for a great guide on raising chickens in your garden, I suggest getting Steele’s book. Her own flock morphed from three chickens initially to more than three dozen today. Her hens cohabitate with ease in her Maine kitchen garden. She has mastered integrating her garden with her chicken keeping so that both feed off of each other. Her book shows you how to thoughtfully plan out your chicken coop and garden so that everyone wins.

(Lisa Steele)

In her book, Steele, who blogs at Fresh Eggs Daily, guides you through managing a backyard flock and making the most of their various talents. You’ll also learn a great deal about keeping your hens happy and healthy. For instance, she shares how supplements, such as probiotics, support their digestive systems and what herbs to plant in your garden to keep your chickens’ delicate respiratory systems healthy.

(Lisa Steele)

Another new book to check out about gardening with chickens that is also full of great information is Backyard Chickens: Beyond the Basics: Lessons for Expanding Your Flock, Understanding Chicken Behavior, Keeping a Rooster, Adjusting for the Seasons, Staying Healthy, and More!

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Watch Butterflies in Your Spring Garden

(David Byron Keener)

One of my favorite gardening perks is the lovely butterflies that invariably visit the landscape on a sunny day. They look like winged confetti when they flit by and seem to be announcing a party in the garden. The good news is that it’s easy to join their celebration.

Thanks to the new book, the Bird Watcher’s Digest Butterflies: Backyard Guide by Erin Gettler, it’s now easier than ever to identify, watch, attract, nurture and even save these winged beauties, which include some 700-plus species throughout North America.

(Cool Springs Press)

Gettler encourages the reader to do some butterfly watching, including tips for doing so and pages dedicated to some of the most popular butterflies. Each of the 55 butterfly pages includes a photo, section on how to identify them, where to find them, including habitat and geographic region, information on their lifecycle and what you can do to attract them to your garden.

(Sari O’Neal)

You’ll discover, for instance, that female black swallowtails have two “messy rows of red spots” separated by a blue field on the underside of their hindwing and males have a “yellow band crossing their wings, mirrored by a line of yellow dots.” And you’ll learn that painted ladies are found on every continent but Australia and Antarctica.

Now is the time to do some butterfly watching, says Gettler, who notes that they’re in plentiful supply in June and July when there are plenty of blooming flowers in the garden. She suggests the following tips for making your butterfly gazing adventure as enjoyable as possible.

(Henrik Larsson)

Use binoculars. Follow the butterfly with your eyes and then use the binoculars once she perches. This will give you a chance to check out her wings so you can identify her.

Go out in the afternoon when butterflies are most active. They require heat and sunlight to fly.

Learn about butterfly groups before pinpointing individual species. For instance, there are skippers and fritillaries and swallowtails.

(Ron Rowan Photography)

Note the butterfly’s overall shape first before moving in to identify finer details.

Notice what’s in your peripheral vision. If you see what looks like confetti floating on the wind when you’re out in the garden, it’s probably a butterfly.

Protect the butterfly lifecycle. Butterfly eggs often look like tiny “crystalline sculptures,” says Gettler. If you see a butterfly hovering around foliage and momentarily perching, she most likely deposited egg(s). Some species lay only one egg at a time, while others deposit clusters.

(Erin Gettler)

In addition to the eggs, it’s important to protect the caterpillars. Yes, they will eat foliage of plants, which they require to grow and then become butterflies. So you’ll want to be okay with some chew marks. When you come across caterpillars in the garden, admire them, but don’t disturb them. Let them chow down so that you can enjoy their metamorphosis and resulting garden dance.

(Tyler Fox)

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com

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Date: MAY 31, 2017

Watch Butterflies in Your Spring Garden

(Sari O’Neal)

(Henrik Larsson)

Use binoculars. Follow the butterfly with your eyes and then use the binoculars once she perches. This will give you a chance to check out her wings so you can identify her.

Go out in the afternoon when butterflies are most active. They require heat and sunlight to fly.

Learn about butterfly groups before pinpointing individual species. For instance, there are skippers and fritillaries and swallowtails.

Note the butterfly’s overall shape first before moving in to identify finer details.

Notice what’s in your peripheral vision. If you see what looks like confetti floating on the wind when you’re out in the garden, it’s probably a butterfly.

(Ron Rowan Photography)

(Erin Gettler)

(TYLER Fox)

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com

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Grow Impatiens in Your Spring Garden

One of the most popular bedding plants of all time, impatiens (I. wallerana) makes a cheery addition to the shade garden. These colorful flowers light up dark corners and readily grow in garden beds, hanging baskets and containers.

Find impatiens in single and double-flower forms. The single flowers lay flat and resemble pinwheels, while the double flowers look just like miniature roses. Whatever type you plant, they produce a mass of vibrant color.

Impatiens come in pink, white, red, orange, lavender and coral. There are even variegated bicolor varieties, making them a stunning subject to feature in a bespoke photo calendar that captures their ever-changing hues.

The plants tend to be low-growing, generally not reaching higher than 8 inches.

To have luck growing impatiens in your spring shade garden, keep the following cultivation tips in mind.

Grow in shade or part shade. Impatiens aren’t meant to grow out in the blazing sun. It’s generally best to grow them in a shade or part shade location. Good places to plant these flowers include under trees, house overhangs or deck covers where they receive dappled sunlight or in areas that get bright, indirect light. They can also tolerate some morning sun. If you live in a coastal area, they can be grown anywhere in the yard.

Plant in the ground or containers. For in-ground planting, place the plants in rich, well-draining soil. If the soil is clay, amend with compost by 40 to 50 percent before planting. For containerized impatiens, use a well-draining, organic potting soil that retains moisture.

Keep well watered. Impatiens grow poorly if allowed to dry out. Water when the top inch of soil has dried out. The soil should remain moist, but not soggy.

Fertilize regularly. Apply an organic fertilizer designed for flowering plants every two to four weeks.

Check for pests. Impatiens may get attacked by the tarnished plant bug, which will lead to small and deformed flowers. Treat with neem oil.

Pinch regularly. Impatiens tend to get leggy, so keep them in check by pruning back regularly. This will cause the plants to become bushier and flower more.

Cut impatiens back. If you live in a climate that doesn’t freeze, cut impatiens back to 2 inches in December. They will come back full and bloom well come spring.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 40 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com

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Date: MAY 27, 2017

Plant Petunias in Your Spring Garden

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

The pretty, perky petunia is without a doubt one of the most popular late spring and summer flowers. The belle of the garden ball, she always dazzles when she shows up with her brilliant blooms.

A South American native, the petunia produces trumpet-shaped flowers in a wide range of colors, including purple, pink, white, red and peach, as well as stunning variegated blooms. Petunias are actually perennials, but are usually grown as annuals throughout North America, where they thrive in warm weather and will bloom into fall.

(FreeImages.com/Jeremy Doorten)

The most popular type of petunia is the Grandiflora variety. These produce large, showy flowers that are usually three to four inches across and come in single and double blooms. Petunia does well in garden beds, as well as in window boxes, hanging baskets and containers.

(Julie Bawden-Davis )

To have the best luck growing petunias in your spring and summer garden, keep these cultivation tips in mind.

Locate petunias in a sunny site. The plant requires six to eight hours of sunlight to flower well. If you grow in less than ideal lighting conditions, petunia will produce sparse blooms and will be susceptible to pests and diseases.

Cultivate the soil well. Petunias require a rich, well-draining soil. Amend with homemade or bagged compost or worm castings prior to planting.

(Julie Bawden-Davis )

Water regularly and mulch. Petunias like to be kept moist but not soggy during the growing season. Mulch with a one- to two-inch layer of ground bark to keep the soil moist and protected from the sun’s drying rays. Also mulch container plants and keep in mind that hanging baskets of petunias may need daily watering when the weather is hot.

Fertilize monthly. Feed petunias with an organic fertilizer designed for blooming plants every month from spring through summer. This will give the plants the nutrients they need to produce vibrant blooms all season long.

(Julie Bawden-Davis )

Prune regularly. For the best blooming, petunias need regular deadheading. Pinch off spent flowers to make room for new blooms. When the petunia’s branches get long and rangy, shear the plant back by one-third. This will create stockier plants full of vibrant blooms.

Possible pest. Petunias are in the tomato family and are susceptible to the budworm caterpillar, which is a small, green caterpillar that is often hard to detect but will cause damage by feeding on foliage and flowers. You’ll know you have the caterpillar when you see black droppings and small holes in the leaves and flower buds. The caterpillar usually disappears by summertime.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

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Date: MAY 12, 2017

Plant Petunias in Your Spring Garden

The pretty, perky petunia is without a doubt one of the most popular late spring and summer flowers. The belle of the garden ball, she always dazzles when she shows up with her brilliant blooms.

(FreeImages.com/Jeremy Doorten)

(Julie Bawden-Davis )

To have the best luck growing petunias in your spring and summer garden, keep these cultivation tips in mind.

Cultivate the soil well. Petunias require a rich, well-draining soil. Amend with homemade or bagged compost or worm castings prior to planting.

(Julie Bawden-Davis )

(Julie Bawden-Davis )

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

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Date: MAY 12, 2017

Sherman Library & Gardens 6th Annual Fuchsia Festival

Whenever I gaze at a fuchsia, I think of a woman’s formal dress, including a petticoat. The shape of this pendulous flower, combined with the vibrant colors, make for a dazzling display. The folks at Sherman Library & Gardens in Corona Del Mar, California realize the allure of the fuchsia, which is why they hold their Annual Fuchsia Festival every spring.

“Sherman Library & Gardens has such a wonderful fuchsia collection, and many parts of Southern California offer a perfect place to grow them,” says Erin Aguiar, manager of horticulture for the gardens

(Sherman Library & Gardens)

“We started the annual festival, because we wanted to celebrate these beautiful flowers and share our love of fuchsias with the community. It has also become more difficult to find some of the older varieties. We wanted to not only preserve them, but make them more available to the public.”

Fuchsias are native to the Americas, just like the flower’s garden counterpart, the hummingbird, says Aguiar. “Fuchsias offer a great way to attract hummingbirds to your garden, where you can easily watch them happily slurp up nectar.”

(Sherman Library & Gardens)

They are also one of the loveliest flowers you can add to your garden. “Fuchsias boast a dizzying array of variety, from the bold, long slender tubes of the Bolivian fuchsia to the dainty miniature blossoms of Fuchsia thymifolia,” says Aguiar. “The classic fuchsia hybrids impress with spectacular color combinations and flower styles.”

Once you get past the short learning curve, you can easily grow these spectacular garden gems, encourages Aguiar, who notes that they require shady conditions if you live inland. They can grow in full sun on the coast. They also need to be kept well-watered.

(Sherman Library & Gardens)

If you live in Southern California, the Fuchsia Festival offers a lovely spring day in the garden with a little something for everyone. “We have the fuchsia plant sale and classes for the green thumbs. There are booths to learn about related gardening topics, as well as games and activities for kids.”

The Fuchsia Festival is on Saturday, May 6th from 10:30 am to 4 pm. Visit www.slgardens.org for more information.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of 10 books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

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Create Magical Paths in Your Garden

Add a sense of intrigue and discovery to the garden by creating garden paths. While they are certainly functional and provide direction, well-placed paths also make traversing your landscape an adventure. Visitors to the garden can’t wait to see what’s around the bend or at the end of a pathway.

By transitioning from one area of the yard to another, well-placed garden paths also create a sense of definition and purpose that leads to a series of outdoor rooms. Even better, meandering pathways can make small yards seem much larger than they actually are. When you edge the path with tall plants, for instance, it prevents you from seeing other parts of the yard and gives the illusion of substantial space.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Planning Your Path

In order to create a successful garden path, it helps to determine the purpose of the path and where you plan to lead people. Here are the three main pathway options:

Practical path. These paths are used for well-traveled routes to locations such as the grill, vegetable garden, shed, garage or firewood.
(Julie Bawden-Davis)
Strolling path. This type of path is used to give visitors and yourself a sense of discovery and exploration. For such a trail, you’ll want it to wind along, passing items like eye-catching plants and statuary. Such a path is most successful when it leads to a destination, like a shady nook with a table and chairs, hammock, hot tub, breathtaking view or a pond or waterfall. As a matter of fact, the sound of running water draws people and will keep them on a path until they reach the water feature.
Fork in the path. If you really want to increase the sense of mystery, create a fork in the path, which gives the garden visitor a choice as to which way to travel. Consider having one of the paths lead to a functional spot, like a potting bench, and the other end up at a secret garden hideaway.

(Lydia Plunk)

Intalling Your Path

Three feet is a good width for most garden paths, unless you plan on pushing through items like lawn mowers, wheelbarrows or wheelchairs. In such cases, you’ll want 4 to 5 feet of clearance.

Plant low-growing ground covers, such as various mosses, near the path edge and around stepping stones. Add progressively taller plants, placing the tallest plants the furthest away. If you are attempting to screen various areas of the yard and create an enclosed feeling, then the taller the last row of plants the better.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

At curves in the path, place little surprises such as unusual statuary, accessories and signage.

Make the journey a fragrant one by placing plants with scented foliage right on the edge of the pathway and between stepping stones. Good scented additions include herbs like mint, oregano, thyme, rosemary, sage, lavender and scented geranium.

Space stepping stones to accommodate a natural stride, and prevent tripping by inserting them into the ground so they are flush with the top of the soil.

Possible Pathway Materials

Garden pathway materials are numerous. They include decomposed granite, gravel, bark chips, wood, rock, pavers and stepping stones. When choosing, consider how the materials will complement the style of your landscape and the architecture of your house. For instance, crushed shells look great at a beach house, whereas river rock or wood is likely to accent a forested pathway.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Decorative stepping stones come in a wide variety of designs. To create a visually appealing look that isn’t overwhelming, intersperse a few decorative stepping stones with plain pavers. Also keep in mind that the most durable and long lasting stepping stones are ones made of concrete.

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Have You Hugged Your Trees Today?

(Davey Tree)

Today’s Arbor Day! Time to hug the trees in your life and thank them. In addition to providing pretty views, soothing shade, and climbing opportunities, trees save our lives and planet.

(Davey Tree)

The truth is, we couldn’t exist as we do if there were no trees, says Laverne. “A mature leafy tree produces as much oxygen in a season as 10 people inhale in a year.” Trees improve overall quality of life, making people happier. They also cut down on hospital visits and days taken off work, and they’ve even been shown to reduce levels of domestic violence and foster more sociable, safer neighborhoods, says Laverne, who has studied the emotional benefits of trees.

“Places with nature and trees may provide settings in which relationships grow stronger and violence is reduced,” he says. “Trees bring people together. Data shows that neighborhoods with shady streets and parks create outdoor spaces that attract people. When people are drawn to spaces with trees, they are more likely to interact with their neighbors and become friends.” Trees are just as good for the environment—performing incredible services that help ensure the health of our planet. They intercept and conserve rainwater so that it percolates into the ground rather than running off into local waterways. Trees also filter sewage and farm chemicals, reduce the effects of animal wastes, and clean roadside spills. And they help control erosion by binding the soil.

(Davey Tree)

If those aren’t enough reasons to love your trees, consider your wallet. Trees save you a lot of money—and can even make you a lot of money. Houses with established trees earn homeowners on average three to seven percent more on home sales, and the reduction in energy bills from landscape trees is substantial. Homes without surrounding trees can become heat islands. So go ahead and hug your trees. They deserve it. Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Have You Hugged Your Trees Today?

Today’s Arbor Day! Time to hug the trees in your life and thank them. In addition to providing pretty views, soothing shade, and climbing opportunities, trees save our lives and planet.

According to a study focusing on the health benefits of trees conducted by the U.S. Forest Service and the Davey Institute, urban forests save thousands of lives every year and improve many more.“Trees act as giant filters that clean the air we breathe,” says R.J. Laverne, a board-certified master arborist at The Davey Tree Expert Company. “They intercept airborne particles, cooling the air, and they absorb pollutants such as carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide, and nitrogen dioxide, changing those pollutants into less harmful forms.”The truth is, we couldn’t exist as we do if there were no trees, says Laverne. “A mature leafy tree produces as much oxygen in a season as 10 people inhale in a year.” Trees improve overall quality of life, making people happier. They also cut down on hospital visits and days taken off work, and they’ve even been shown to reduce levels of domestic violence and foster more sociable, safer neighborhoods, says Laverne, who has studied the emotional benefits of trees.

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Watch Butterflies in Your Spring Garden

Grow Impatiens in Your Spring Garden

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Plant Petunias in Your Spring Garden

Sherman Library & Gardens 6th Annual Fuchsia Festival

Create Magical Paths in Your Garden

Have You Hugged Your Trees Today?

Have You Hugged Your Trees Today?

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