Portfolio Categories: BLOG.GARDENTECH.COM

Plant Pest Detective: Identifying Common Plant Pests

When you’re in the garden picking homegrown produce and find telltale bite marks on your plants, chances are you’ve got insect pests. Knowing what you’re dealing with when it comes to insects allows you to choose just the right treatment for getting rid of those uninvited dinner guests.

Here’s everything you need to know about the most common troublemakers so you can sleuth to successfully pinpoint and treat your insect pest problem. Some of these pests affect either edible or ornamental crops, while others damage both.

Aphids. Several species of this sap-sucking, winged pest exist. You’ll find aphids in green, black, yellow or red. They attack edible and ornamental plants, causing growth to be stunted, leaves to curl and yellow, and a honeydew buildup that leads to black, sooty mold. Ants are attracted to the honeydew produced by aphids, so include them in your treatment plan. Bagworms. Recognized for the bags they produce that hang down from various species of trees, bagworms can defoliate trees if infestation is heavy.

Cabbage worms. Green, hairy cabbage worms have a velvety appearance and a row of light spots along their backs. They are voracious feeders that eat vegetable plant leaves, creating large, irregular holes, often along the midrib. When feeding on cabbage, these worms bore directly into the head. Their excrement consists of greenish-brown pellets. After two to three weeks of feeding, the larvae pupate and attach themselves to stems by a silk thread. The adult cabbage moth is easy to spot; it’s white, with one to four black spots on its wings. Cicadas. Loud pests that buzz, cicadas create many sacks that hang down from tree branches. Signs of infestation include splits in twigs where the insects have laid eggs.

Colorado potato beetles. Distinctive ½-inch-long yellow insects, Colorado potato beetles feature black brown and yellow stripes on their wing covers. They gobble up and skeletonize the foliage on plants in the nightshade family, including potatoes, eggplant, peppers and tomatoes. Female beetles lay clusters of bright yellow-orange eggs on the undersides of the leaves. Slug-like, hump-backed larvae hatch from these eggs and molt several times during feeding, growing fatter each time. Corn earworms. Ravenous worms with a propensity to feed on the tip area of corn, corn earworms also attack tomatoes, fruit and bean pods. They leave extensive brown excrement around their feeding areas. Young worms are green with black heads and hairs, while mature worms are 1 ½ inches long and can be brown, pale green or light pink in color with many thorny microspines. The yellow adult moths lay small, white eggs on foliage and in the corn silk.

Cucumber beetles. Eye-catching cucumber beetles are yellow with black stripes or spots. The larvae are white and thin. As adults, these pests damage plants by feeding on leaves, soft fruit, shoots and blossoms. The larvae feed on roots, which causes plants to become susceptible to wind damage. Common targets of these beetles are cucumber, cantaloupe, watermelon, pumpkin, winter and summer squash, and gourds.

Flea beetles. Named appropriately, flea beetles are tiny green or black beetles that jump. They attack a wide range of plants, including fruits, vegetables and ornamentals. Adult flea beetles create pinholes in leaves. Japanese beetles. Notorious for skeletonizing leaves of a wide variety of edible and ornamental plants, Japanese beetles are have iridescent copper wings and a green-metallic thorax and head. Underneath they have small amounts of white hair along the sides of their abdomens. The eggs are white or cream-colored and the slightly curved larvae are gray-white with brown heads. Lace bugs. These gray pests are so called because they have lacelike wing covers. Lace bugs create tiny, light-gray spots on the upper part of fruit and ornamental tree leaves that can become stippled. When feeding, they leave behind dark brown honeydew excrement.

Leafhoppers. Flying or jumping when disturbed, these small, thin, wedge-shaped insects come in shades of green, brown and yellow, depending on the species. Leafhoppers feed on a variety of edible and ornamental plants and cause leaves to lose color, brown and become stippled. They also leave behind black excrement.

I am text block. Click edit button to change this text. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Ut elit tellus, luctus nec ullamcorper mattis, pulvinar dapibus leo.

Mexican bean beetles. Copper in color, Mexican bean beetles have eight black spots on each wing cover. They skeletonize the leaves of beans (their preferred hosts), as well as black-eyed peas, soybeans, cowpeas, mung beans, alfalfa and clover. The larvae are light yellow with a spiny appearance; the eggs are also yellow and found in clusters on leaves.

Scale. Circular, armor-like insects, scale are found on the stems of plants and the underside of leaves, and they often look like a part of the plant. They suck plant sap, creating honeydew and attracting ants, which require management as well.

Spittlebugs. It’s easy to spot the damage created by spittlebugs. Brownish-gray insects able to hop and fly, they produce a telltale foamy substance that looks like spit. It covers leaves and congregates in the forks of stems. Spittlebugs like to attack herbs, pecans and strawberries.

Squash bugs. Somewhat flat in shape, squash bugs are dark brown or black and congregate at the base of plants or under dead foliage. They have piercing mouthparts that suck plant sap, causing yellow spots on leaves that will often later wilt, blacken, die and fall off. The eggs are long and yellow in color. Stink bugs. Sap-sucking stink bugs are brown, green, or mottled and shaped like a shield. They feed on a wide variety of edible plants, including various fruit trees and some ornamentals. Fruits become puckered, scarred and experience cavities as a result of the feeding. The eggs are light red to yellow-red and are found on the underside of leaves. Tent caterpillars. Attacking various trees and shrubs, tent caterpillars defoliate and stunt plant growth. The adults are hairy and dark brown with a yellow-spotted stripe along the spine. The insect creates tent-like egg casings that encircle twigs during the winter months.

Thrips. These small, slender insects are brown, black or yellow and have fringed wings. Thrips damage fruit trees and ornamental plants. They suck on plants, which results in silvering and mottling of the surface of the leaves. They also leave behind black, shiny flecks of excrement.

Tomato hornworms. Known for quickly devouring the foliage of vegetable crops, particularly tomatoes, peppers, potatoes and eggplant, tomato hornworms can measure up to 4 inches long and feature posterior horns. The adults are large moths that appear at dusk. You can detect hornworms in the garden by the large amount of black excrement they leave on the ground near plants. Fortunately, all of these pests can be quickly and efficiently eliminated with GardenTech’s Sevin®- 5 Ready-To-Use 5% Dust. Simply coat affected leaf surfaces of vegetables, fruit, flowers and ornamental shrubs with a fine dusting, and say goodbye to trouble. Always make sure to follow package label directions carefully.

Sevin is a registered trademark of Tessenderlo Kerley, Inc. 

Gardening for Everyone: Creating Accessible Gardens

When it comes to hobbies, gardening is a popular activity that just about anyone can enjoy. Using specific methods, individuals with limited mobility or who are disabled can care for plants. Accessible gardens, such as raised beds, offer a chance for those who are wheelchair bound to enjoy the many pleasures of tending to plants.

Here are three methods that open up the world of gardening to people with physical limitations.

Raised Beds

Raised beds make gardening possible for individuals who are wheelchair bound or unable to kneel. Beds can be constructed at any height desired and should be placed in accessible locations.

Follow these steps to designing and constructing a raised bed:

Consider the gardener’s physical limitations. If wheelchair bound, construct the raised bed at a height that allows the gardener to reach into the garden while seated. If the gardener is mobile but unable to kneel or lean over easily while standing, construct bench seating around the planting bed.

Choose a location. Locate the raised bed in an area that’s easily accessible and conducive to what the gardener will grow. Pathways widths should be minimum of 4 feet to ensure clearance for wheelchairs, walkers and wheelbarrows.3 Ensure that the paths are level, firm and free of any stumbling blocks, including loose gravel.

If the gardener will be planting vegetables, small fruit trees or sun-loving flowers, locate the raised bed in a location that receives 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. For shade plants, place the garden in an area that receives morning sun or dappled sunlight throughout the day, such as under a tree or patio cover.

Determine dimensions. Raised beds are generally 3 to 4 feet wide.1 Determine the width according the gardener’s reach. For example, if the person can reach 2 feet into the bed from one side, then make the bed no wider than 4 feet. The height of the bed should be 24 inches for someone seated in a wheelchair, and 30 inches for an individual who will stand while gardening but has difficulty bending and reaching. The length of the raised bed is usually 10 to 20 feet. Make seating edges 8 to 18 inches wide.2

Build the bed. Raised beds are generally made from rot-resistant wood, brick or stone. You can make one from scratch or purchase a raised bed kit from your local garden center or hardware store. When building a wooden raised bed from scratch, use decking screws for maximum stability. Cement brick and stone together to avoid soil leakage. if you have problems with burrowing pests like voles, moles and gophers, deter them by lining the bottom of the bed with hardware cloth.4

Fill the bed. Fill the bed with a mix of two parts planting mix, one part horticultural sand or perlite, and one part compost, such as Pennington® Earthworm Castings 1.5-0-0. Water well to settle any air pockets, and then add more soil until the soil line is 1 to 2 inches below the top of the bed.

Plant. You can plant just about anything in a raised bed that you would in the ground. Raised beds are ideal for flowers; vegetables and herbs; fruits, such as strawberries; and even dwarf fruit trees, including peach and plum.

Maintain. Raised beds tend to drain fast, so they require more frequent watering than in-ground plants. Water when the top 2 inches of soil has dried out. Fertilize monthly spring through fall with Lilly Miller® All Purpose Planting & Growing Food 10-10-10, and prune flowers regularly to keep them blooming. Harvest herbs and vegetables as soon as they are ready for consumption or the plants will stop producing.

 

Tabletop Garden

Essentially a shallow raised bed on legs, a tabletop garden allows for easy wheelchair access. The gardener can push the chair underneath the table and work comfortably. Tabletop gardens are generally made of wood or metal, and can be constructed from scratch or bought pre-made.
 

Construction. The planting bed of a tabletop garden is usually 8 to 10 inches deep, and the table is generally 27 inches from the ground. To avoid arm strain, the top of the planter should not be higher than the sitting gardener’s ribcage. For easy reach, the width of the bed should be 3 feet.

Drill drainage holes beneath the planting area, and consider placing the tabletop garden on casters, so it can be moved easily.2

Add soil. Fill the tabletop garden with pre-moistened potting soil until it’s filled to within an inch of the top.

Plant. Since they aren’t very deep, tabletop gardens should only be used to grow shallow-rooted annuals and some vegetables and herbs. Flower choices include marigold, petunia, zinnia, phlox, lobelia, verbena and pansy; vegetable and herb choices include lettuce, spinach, cucumber, cherry tomato, baby carrot, basil, thyme and rosemary,

Maintenance. Water when the top 2 inches of soil has dried out, and fertilize monthly with Lilly Miller® All Purpose Planting & Growing Food 10-10-10. Keep flowers pruned to promote re-flowering, and harvest vegetables regularly to increase production.

Containers

The wide variety of pot sizes and types open up a world of possibilities for a gardener with limited mobility. Such an individual can easily garden at a table with smaller pots or from a chair next to large containers.

The following tips help ensure a successful container gardening experience.

Choose a container. Choose wood, plastic, ceramic, metal or clay containers, making sure that each one has drainage holes to prevent root rot. If the gardener’s upper body strength is limited, opt for small, lightweight plastic pots. Put large containers on casters.

When planting in a hanging container, use a plastic pot and install a ratchet pulley system that allows the gardener to easily lower and raise the container by pulling on a cord.

Add soil. Always use potting soil in containers; never garden soil. Choose a potting soil that contains organic material, such as peat moss and compost, and drainage agents, such as perlite or pumice. Further enrich the soil by adding Pennington® Earthworm Castings 1.5-0-0 according to package directions. Lightly moisten the soil before adding it to the container, which will help prevent air pockets and uneven settling of the soil.

Plant. You can plant most flowers in containers. If you wish to grow vegetables, opt for dwarf forms, such as bush bean, baby carrot, baby beet, green onion, cherry tomato and baby cucumber. Most herbs thrive in containers.

The amount of plants you put in a pot will depend on the size of the container and the size of the plant at maturity. Check the plant care tag for this information.

Water. Containers require frequent watering. Plants in hanging baskets get especially thirsty since heat rises. Water when the first inch of soil has dried. Typically, during spring and summer months, watering once a day will suffice. In fall and winter, water only once or twice a week.

Fertilize. Frequent watering rinses nutrients from the soil of containerized plants, so feeding on a regular basis is important to keep plants healthy. During the spring and summer months, fertilize every two weeks, and in the fall and winter, feed monthly with Lilly Miller® All Purpose Planting & Growing Food 10-10-10.

Conclusion

Gardening is an enjoyable activity that is within reach for just about anyone who wants to dig in and enjoy the many perks of nurturing plants.

Pennington is a registered trademark of Pennington Seed, Inc.

Lilly Miller is a registered trademark of Central Garden & Pet Company.

Sources

1. Diane Relf, “Gardening in Raised Beds and Containers for Older Gardeners and Individuals with Physical Disabilities,” Department of Horticulture,Virginia Polytechnic Institute & State University, 1995.

2. Jean Larson, et. al, “Accessible gardening for therapeutic horticulture,” University of Minnesota Extension, 2008.

3. Becky Cresswell. et. al, “Gardening for Life: A Guide to Garden Adaptations for Gardeners of All Ages and Abilities,” January 2005.

4. Johanna Silver, “Step-by-step: Build the ultimate raised bed,” Sunset.com.

Topics: Gardening and Healthy Living

Common Diseases of Tomato, Pepper, Eggplant and Potato

 Tomato, pepper, eggplant and potato, popular garden crops in the Solanaceae family of plants, are susceptible to several diseases that can diminish or completely ruin harvests. Some of those diseases damage fruit, while others devastate the foliage. In all cases, plant health and vigor is negatively affected.

Listed below are symptoms of the most common tomato, pepper, eggplant and potato diseases, and how to control them. Unless otherwise indicated, GardenTech® Daconil®Fungicide Concentrate, with the active fungal pathogen-fighting ingredient chlorothalonil, can be used to effectively treat the problem.

Disease: Anthracnose

Vegetables plants affected: eggplant, pepper and tomato

Symptoms: Damage due to anthracnose, a fungal disease, appears on ripening fruit in the form of dark, sunken lesions.1 The whole fruit eventually rots prematurely on the vine. The condition is common in regions that experience frequent high humidity, such as the southern United States.

Control: The spores from anthracnose live in soil, so avoid overhead watering, as this will cause the spores to splash onto the plant and infect it. Prevent healthy fruit from becoming infected by ensuring that it doesn’t touch the soil. On infected plants, spores congregate in ripening fruit, so harvest as soon as the fruit is ready to eat, and then pick and throw rotting fruit away rather than letting it fall to the ground. Every three years, plant only non-Solanaceae vegetable crops in the planting bed for one season to help stop the disease cycle.2

Disease: Blight (Early)

Vegetables plants affected: eggplant, pepper, potato and tomato

Symptoms: Damage from early blight, another fungal disease, appears as circular brown spots on leaves and stems. Spots enlarge, creating concentric rings that resemble targets, and eventually take over the foliage, leading to defoliation. In severe cases, the plant loses all of its lower leaves and dies.3

Control: Early blight spores live in the soil, so avoid overhead watering to prevent infected dirt from splashing onto the foliage. Because blight thrives in humid, poorly ventilated areas, space plants at least 12 inches apart to allow for adequate air circulation. To help prevent the disease from spreading, promptly remove and discard all infected plants.3

Disease: Blight (Early)

Vegetables plants affected: eggplant, pepper, potato and tomato

Symptoms: Damage from early blight, another fungal disease, appears as circular brown spots on leaves and stems. Spots enlarge, creating concentric rings that resemble targets, and eventually take over the foliage, leading to defoliation. In severe cases, the plant loses all of its lower leaves and dies.3

Control: Early blight spores live in the soil, so avoid overhead watering to prevent infected dirt from splashing onto the foliage. Because blight thrives in humid, poorly ventilated areas, space plants at least 12 inches apart to allow for adequate air circulation. To help prevent the disease from spreading, promptly remove and discard all infected plants.3

I am text block. Click edit button to change this text. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Ut elit tellus, luctus nec ullamcorper mattis, pulvinar dapibus leo.

Control: There is no treatment for Fusarium wilt, so the best way for tomato growers to control the disease is to plant tomato varieties that resist the disease. Resistant plants carry an F (for Fusarium) on the label and on seed packages. Unfortunately, disease-resistant varieties of potato, eggplant and pepper plants don’t exist. When the disease is first detected on those plants, remove and dispose of them. If Fusarium wilt continues to be a problem season after season in a certain area of the garden, avoid planting any plants from the Solanaceae family in that space for at least four years.6 Fusarium wilt can also be controlled by solarizing the soil for a season, which involves covering the soil with a clear plastic tarp for 4 to 6 weeks during the hottest time of the year. Trapped heat kills disease-causing pathogens in the top 12 to 18 inches of soil.7 Because cucumber beetles can spread the disease,9 keep them under control with Amdro® Quick Kill® Outdoor Insect Killer (RTS).

Disease: Gray Mold

Vegetables plants affected: eggplant, pepper, potato and tomato

Symptoms: Gray mold is a fungal condition that shows up initially as brown or gray circular spots on leaves, stems, flowers and fruit. Over time, the spots grow fuzzy mold.9Flower buds develop abnormally, turn brown and fall off before blooming. When flowers do appear, they may be covered with brown spots.10

Control: Gray mold thrives in shade, so plant tomato, potato, pepper and eggplant in full sun.9 The disease also spreads quickly in poorly ventilated growing conditions, so provide good air circulation by spacing plants at least 12 inches apart. Prevent the spread of this disease by removing and disposing of infected plants as soon as the condition is detected. Also remove and discard any foliage and buds that have fallen to the ground. Gray mold spores live in the soil, so avoid overhead watering, which can cause soil to splash onto plants and spread the disease.10

Disease: Septoria leaf spot

Symptoms: Septoria leaf spot is a fungal disease that begins with yellowing of the lower leaves, progressing to form circular spots with dark borders and gray centers. Spots eventually reach one-eighth inch in diameter and borders become yellow. Black specks may develop in the center of the spots. In severe cases, leaves fall off, first at the base of the plant and then upward. At that point, without leaf protection, fruit is at risk of becoming sunscalded.11

Control: Many weeds harbor Septoria leaf spot, so weed your garden regularly. Avoid overhead watering, which can cause soil to splash onto plants and spread the disease. Help prevent the disease from returning year after year by removing and discarding tomato, pepper and eggplant plants immediately after they bear fruit,2and by planting those crops in a different area of the garden each year.

Disease: Verticillium Wilt

Vegetables plants affected: eggplant, pepper, potato and tomato

Symptoms: Symptoms of Verticillium wilt generally don’t appear until after the plant has produced a heavy crop or unless the weather is dry. Bottom leaves become pale, leaf edges turn brown, and the plant eventually defoliates. Sometimes symptoms appear only on one side of the plant. Infected plants usually survive, but low yields are produced and growth is stunted.6

Prevention: There is no treatment for Verticillium wilt, so the best way to control the disease is to plant tomato varieties that resist the disease. Resistant plants carry a V (for Verticillium) on the labels and on seed packages. Unfortunately, Verticillium wilt-resistant varieties aren’t available for potato, eggplant and pepper plants. So control spread of the disease by removing and disposing of infected plants when the wilt is detected. If the disease continues to be a problem in a specific area of your garden season after season, avoid planting any plants from the Solanaceae family in that space for at least four years, or solarize the soil for one planting season.6

Conclusion:

Healthy plants have a better chance of resisting disease.12 Give your vegetable garden full sun, sufficient water and keep it nourished with high quality fertilizer, such as Lilly Miller® All Purpose Planting & Growing Food 10-10-10.

Always read the product label and follow the instructions carefully.

GardenTech is a registered trademark of Gulfstream Home & Garden, Inc.

Daconil is a registered trademark of GB Biosciences Corp.

Lilly Miller and Amdro Quick Kill are registered trademarks of Central Garden & Pet Company.

Related Articles in Pest Management:

Sources:

1. Anthracnose Colletotrichum orbiculare,” Texas A&M Agrilife Extension, July 2009.

2. John P. Damicone and Lynn Brandenberger, “Common Diseases of Tomatoes,” Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service.

3. Brian Hudelson, “Early Blight,” University of Wisconsin-Extension, March 10, 2012.

4. Schumann, G.L. and C. J. D’Arcy, “Late blight of potato and tomato,” The American Phytopathological Society, 2005.

5. Abby Seaman, et. al, “Late Blight: A Serious Disease of Potatoes and Tomatoes,” Cornell University Integrated Pest Management Program.

6. Sally A. Miller, et. al, “Fusarium and Verticillium Wilts of Tomato, Potato, Pepper, and Eggplant,” The Ohio State University Extension.

7. J. J. Stapleton, et. al, “Soil Solarization for Gardens & Landscapes,” University of California Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program, October 2008.

8. “Fusarium Wilt,” Planet Natural.

9. Joey Williamson, “Gray Mold (Botrytis Blight),” Clemson Cooperative Extension, February 2015.

10. “Botrytis Blight,” Missouri Botanical Garden.

11. Howard F. Schwartz and David H. Gent, “Septoria Leaf Spot,” University of Wyoming, University of Nebraska, Colorado State University and Montana State University, April 1, 2007.

12. Simeon Wright and Christopher Starbuck, “Preventing and Managing Plant Diseases,” University of Missouri Extension, April 2008.